Helo80 wrote:The only oil I know that costs that much per quart is Royal Purple and the Mobil 0w-30 (?)
Castrol 06037 EDGE 5W-30 European Formula (API SL, ACEA A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB-Approval 229.5, VW 502 00, VW 505 00)
Helo80 wrote:The only oil I know that costs that much per quart is Royal Purple and the Mobil 0w-30 (?)
Ha! I ride a mountain bike and prefer to ride rather than maintain or clean. After 10 or 20 rides, the chain starts singing, so I'll squirt water on it from my camelbak to get through the ride. I'll oil the chain before riding again...with whatever kind of regular oil I can find...then I'll wipe down the chain. I check the chain wear and usually replace it once a year. SRAM PC 971 Chain - 9-Speed...about $19. http://www.jensonusa.com/!fMFNER4v5v9V2 ... oCm4Xw_wcBgloss151 wrote:To lube the chain its maybe $.10 or perhaps double that if using a dry ptfe lube. I lube the drivetrain every 3 weeks or so. Every month or two I'll use a quarter of a can of break cleaner to completely clean the bikes cassette and chainrings. This is for a 20 year old dura ace drive train.
fourwheelcycle wrote:Helo80 wrote:The only oil I know that costs that much per quart is Royal Purple and the Mobil 0w-30 (?)
Castrol 06037 EDGE 5W-30 European Formula (API SL, ACEA A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB-Approval 229.5, VW 502 00, VW 505 00)
Assuming you exclude Mercedes dealers, what do you mean?Helo80 wrote:[MB authorized shop.
That's what I meant... MB dealers. Maybe other shops can become authorized as well.... IDK...neilpilot wrote:Assuming you exclude Mercedes dealers, what do you mean?Helo80 wrote:[MB authorized shop.
+1 We also save time, making appointments, getting a loaner car at the dealership, or having somebody pick you up and take you back to pick up the car. It's one thing that we electric car owners never have to think about ever again!GTBuzz wrote:$0. I drive an electric car.
jabberwockOG wrote:I always diy oil changes on our cars. Cost is apprx $30 using full syn oil with a quality filter. I do it more for fun than saving money because I enjoy doing most of the basic maint on our cars. I take my time doing oil change and also check out the various other mechanical components/systems. Added benefit is that I know it was done right by someone that actually cares about the car.
IF someday I can't diy anymore, I'd likely take it to the dealer or find a good independent certified mechanic. No way would I use any kind of quicky oil change place - these are almost always staffed by low wage, very inexperienced folks who may actually damage your car due to inattention to detail or just gross incompetence.
I don't want to derail the thread, but I'm curious about this.keaton wrote:For the people that DIY their oil changes, get an oil extractor! It's amazing.
Be sure to look for the mail in rebate coupons from Oreilly's. They really do honor them and it costs a stamp and 3 min to fill out the form, I've gotten about $40 back so far. Last week, Valvoline Synpower and a Wix filter was on sale for $33 with a $10 mail in rebate.IFRider wrote:Changed the oil in my Pilot last weekend.
$38.01 at O'Reillys -- 1 gallon Pennzoil 5w-20 and a Wix filter.
Took me 10 minutes, maybe a new record.
Amazing!madbrain wrote:The dealer just sent me a free oil change coupon for my 100% electric Chevrolet Bolt.
Thank you for that heads up.barnaclebob wrote:Be sure to look for the mail in rebate coupons from Oreilly's. They really do honor them and it costs a stamp and 3 min to fill out the form, I've gotten about $40 back so far. Last week, Valvoline Synpower and a Wix filter was on sale for $33 with a $10 mail in rebate.IFRider wrote:Changed the oil in my Pilot last weekend.
$38.01 at O'Reillys -- 1 gallon Pennzoil 5w-20 and a Wix filter.
Took me 10 minutes, maybe a new record.
Lucky you. Tesla has never sent me a free oil change coupon!madbrain wrote:The dealer just sent me a free oil change coupon for my 100% electric Chevrolet Bolt.
I can't speak for Keaton, but I've been using a Mytevac extractor for years. Advantages include ability to change oil without driving car on a ramp, removing bottom shield (on one of my cars) to access oil pan drain plug, removing plug, draining oil in a pan which I found more likely to result in spillage, buying a new drain plug gasket, pouring used oil into container(s) for disposal which once again resulted in more spillage potential.researcher wrote:I don't want to derail the thread, but I'm curious about this.keaton wrote:For the people that DIY their oil changes, get an oil extractor! It's amazing.
What is the main benefit of an oil extractor for you?
You should complain !Leif wrote:Lucky you. Tesla has never sent me a free oil change coupon!madbrain wrote:The dealer just sent me a free oil change coupon for my 100% electric Chevrolet Bolt.
That is more than a bit excessive. Many race cars don't have their oil changed that frequently.JerryStubak wrote:Some say every 300 miles but that seems a bit excessive.
It varies a bit depending on the vehicle's layout. In descending order of hassle:researcher wrote:What is the main benefit of an oil extractor for you?
Pennzoil and Mobil 1 run a $10-12 rebate for 5 quarts roughly 6 months out of any one year. Pennzoil has one running right now, and Quaker State. Mobile 1 had one run until May 31. There are many other rebates and sales. One good place to learn about them is at the bobistheoilguy forum. They have a sub-forum dedicated to oil rebates. The internet has something for any interest, even a forum dedicated to oil rebates!mxs wrote: I was not aware of the $12-$15 rebate from Mobil 1, I am assuming that is good when bought from Walmart, correct? I will have to remember that rebate going forward.
I just bought 2 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 0w-20 $22.88 each BEFORE rebate. I would say that you may loose your standing as a true Boglehead if you regularly pay $40-50 for that item.Indexboss wrote:I change oil myself, but many modern cars are switching to expensive 0W-20 synthetic only oils for fuel efficiency standards. The cost to buy 5-6 quarts is about $40-50. An OEM filter costs around $10.00 or so. At least most modern cars have 10,000 mile intervals.
Your post reminded me I used to go to the quick lube places and always had good results. I had a '97 Grand Marquis that all I did for a decade was whatever they recommended. A few other repairs at other shops when the need arose. Always quick and easy. Paid a little extra but it was right by my house and I enjoyed sipping the thick coffee and playing on my phone while they quickly fixed things.ethan_imagine wrote: ↑Sun Jul 03, 2022 6:01 pm I have a Subaru Forester 2017, 2.5i Premium, 4 cyl. Did oil change at Valvoline in Somerville, MA on July 3, 2022. Let me provide a latest data point in a time of inflation.
Parts Quantity Unit Price($)
Valvoline 0W20 MaxLife oil API SP 5.1 QT
Oil filter VO106 1 each
Parts subtotal 77.99
discount -10
Labor 23.53
subtotal 91.52
tax 5.08
Total 96.60
Note Subaru needs synthetic oil, so it's pricier than the regular one, but it lasts longer. Valvoline offers 2 kinds of synthetic oil: the full and semi synthetic oil. I chose the cheaper option.
Another note is that Valvoline tends to sell you additional produces/services, such as cabin air filter and air filter in the car. They are not cheap, but it's ultimately your call. They can be quite persuasive, by showing you how filthy your filters are. Be careful.
The entire service took ~ 15mins, which was a plus for me.
Here's a list of services they provided within the 15mins:
checked lubrication points
checked oil drain plug & gasket
checked tire pressure, front & rear
checked break fluid level
checked battery
checked coolant reservoir level
checked transmission fluid level sealed
checked oil drain plus
Hope it helps.
Not to be sarcastic but doesn’t the place that sells you tires have an incentive to have your tires replaced as much as possible?Broken Man 1999 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 03, 2022 6:25 pm $30-$40, every 5,000 miles or so, includes tire rotation and wheel balance check. Same place I bought my tires, so they have an incentive to make sure my tires wear evenly. Every time I buy a new set of tires I ask them to check alignment, only one alignment for about 5 years now. Roads are horrible in certain areas we traverse, tires take a beating.
Never liked doing oil changes, if I had had a nice garage with a lift maybe. All mine were on grass or dirt surface. As soon as I could afford having someone else do them, I flicked that booger off my finger.
Broken Man 1999
Exactly, I’ve had super tight filter canister drains that are only supposed to be 9ft lbs and finger tight drain plugs leaking oil on my brand new stuff serviced at the dealer! On my current Toyota truck, I decided to forgo the “free” oil changes for the first 2 years that came with it and do them myself. OEM filter/drain washer and 8 qts of some of the highest rated oil all for about $45-50 and the peace of mind knowing that it was actually done right... proper torque specs and sano conditions. I’m a car guy and give a darn about my vehicles so this stuff matters to me I suppose.Helo80 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 10, 2017 11:27 am Usually, about $3 per quarter and $5 per filter. I change the oil for everyone in my family's car. In terms of oil changes, I don't trust anybody.
My dad took his truck to a Ford dealership, and somehow, I think they managed to use an impact wrench on the oil filter. Then, the oil drain plug had threads that collapsed when I took off the plugs. The engine has 17,000 miles on it, and he took it twice to the same Ford dealership. I ate the $11 cost of a new oil plug, gladly, without arguing at those a**hats. Thankfully, the oil pan threads were fine.
My dad also took his Toyota, regularly, for the first 60,000 miles to the dealership he bought it from. Again, the oil can (the special oil house Toyota uses now), had He-Man strength tightening on the thing, as well as, the oil plug.
It's utterly and completely ridiculous and goes against any service manual. It's not even funny, because overtightening those parts can cause serious damage to the engine. Just like what a previous poster said about Jiffy Lube, they won't take responsibility.... ever.
I don't belittle peoples chosen occupation, but the oil lube peeps don't take pride in their work, or don't care. I hand tighten oil filters and oil drain plugs and never leak nor struggle to take them off down the road. I'll be honest, it's easy enough and inexpensive enough to change the oil that I would not get a "free" oil change from any dealer. I have witnessed, first hand, too many problems with something as simple as an oil change.
Similar to you I know what to look for, and what to do for a job well done. Many folks who do not think they got really excellent service and a bunch of other stuff 'checked' - I guess sometimes its better if you don't know.Carguy85 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 04, 2022 6:18 amExactly, I’ve had super tight filter canister drains that are only supposed to be 9ft lbs and finger tight drain plugs leaking oil on my brand new stuff serviced at the dealer! On my current Toyota truck, I decided to forgo the “free” oil changes for the first 2 years that came with it and do them myself. OEM filter/drain washer and 8 qts of some of the highest rated oil all for about $45-50 and the peace of mind knowing that it was actually done right... proper torque specs and sano conditions. I’m a car guy and give a darn about my vehicles so this stuff matters to me I suppose.Helo80 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 10, 2017 11:27 am Usually, about $3 per quarter and $5 per filter. I change the oil for everyone in my family's car. In terms of oil changes, I don't trust anybody.
My dad took his truck to a Ford dealership, and somehow, I think they managed to use an impact wrench on the oil filter. Then, the oil drain plug had threads that collapsed when I took off the plugs. The engine has 17,000 miles on it, and he took it twice to the same Ford dealership. I ate the $11 cost of a new oil plug, gladly, without arguing at those a**hats. Thankfully, the oil pan threads were fine.
My dad also took his Toyota, regularly, for the first 60,000 miles to the dealership he bought it from. Again, the oil can (the special oil house Toyota uses now), had He-Man strength tightening on the thing, as well as, the oil plug.
It's utterly and completely ridiculous and goes against any service manual. It's not even funny, because overtightening those parts can cause serious damage to the engine. Just like what a previous poster said about Jiffy Lube, they won't take responsibility.... ever.
I don't belittle peoples chosen occupation, but the oil lube peeps don't take pride in their work, or don't care. I hand tighten oil filters and oil drain plugs and never leak nor struggle to take them off down the road. I'll be honest, it's easy enough and inexpensive enough to change the oil that I would not get a "free" oil change from any dealer. I have witnessed, first hand, too many problems with something as simple as an oil change.
Ignorance in so many cases is certainly bliss..(coming from someone with a bit of OCD)