Bathroom Plumbing help
Bathroom Plumbing help
I am removing a pedestal sink and installing a vanity in its place. The drain and the p-trap are not lining up with the old plumbing (a little more than inch apart). What can I do to remedy this predicament?
Thanks in advance!
Ryan
Thanks in advance!
Ryan
Last edited by RMO87 on Fri Dec 10, 2021 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
Without a picture all i can say is to buy new parts at the hardware store and make them line up. A lot of times those p trap parts are extendable with a pressure fit gasket to keep them water tight.
To post a pic, you first need to put it on another photo hosting site like imgur.com then link it here.
To post a pic, you first need to put it on another photo hosting site like imgur.com then link it here.
Last edited by barnaclebob on Fri Dec 10, 2021 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
An 1.5" p-trap will offset about 3" depending on the individual trap.
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Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
Hard to make a suggestion without a picture. Assuming the drain output pipe is in the wall behind the vanity, you rotate the p-trap around the drain pipe from the sink. At some point, in theory anyway, the end of the trap will line up with the drain in the wall.
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
If you do a search there are some Youtube video's on the subject.
Regards |
Bob
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
Take a few pictures with your cell phone & head to the orange, big box HD store. Go to the plumbing department & ask them. Around here there are a lot of older, experienced people to assist you. Your issue should be simple to deal with.
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Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
As said above, the p-trap can accommodate a bit of an offset. Instead of facing straight back, rotate the p-trap towards the drain in the wall, even up to 90 degrees. The pipe which comes out of the wall can slide out a bit to meet the rotated p-trap, which is now a bit farther from the wall. There are lots of parts at the hardware store if you need a longer piece. Get a few drain kits and try them.
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
You buy a 33 or 45 to offset the tailpipe coming out of the wall so that it can meet the p-trap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OSgwpteR4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OSgwpteR4
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
+1 This, plus you can get an extension to the down pipe from the sink to get the p-trap to the same level as the wall pipe.Saving$ wrote: ↑Fri Dec 10, 2021 10:52 pm You buy a 33 or 45 to offset the tailpipe coming out of the wall so that it can meet the p-trap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OSgwpteR4
“Doing well with money has little to do with how smart you are and a lot to do with how you behave.” - Morgan Housel
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
I was going to say I would get rid of the iron, and replace with ABS, transitioned (dare I say, ahem, these words, Sawzall, Fernco coupling) at the drain behind that nice cover-up, which makes this project easy, and serviceable in the future, from big box stores.
But since this is not PVC/ABS, you probably don't have pipe fitter tools that make this child's play, and that it's pretty obvious someone wanted their "under sink" to be pretty, I would post that pic here, and ask for recommendations and part names for a clean install for a DIYer.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php (Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice)
Should these parts exist, and I suspect they do from the boutique niche players, hopefully you can find a distributor that will actually allow you to buy them without a contractors license, good luck.
But since this is not PVC/ABS, you probably don't have pipe fitter tools that make this child's play, and that it's pretty obvious someone wanted their "under sink" to be pretty, I would post that pic here, and ask for recommendations and part names for a clean install for a DIYer.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php (Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice)
Should these parts exist, and I suspect they do from the boutique niche players, hopefully you can find a distributor that will actually allow you to buy them without a contractors license, good luck.
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Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
You need to install a "slip drain" (other technical terms as well) like this:
Disassemble everything from the wall drain.
Install a "slip collar" on the existing wall drain end thread, clean well, use teflon tape and also plumbers teflon pipe goop. Do not overtighten. Install everything loose first.
This new "P" trap system comes in a bag with all the parts that go from the "P" trap to the wall. The length of the horizontal slip drain pipe can vary so be sure not to buy a set where it is too short. You can always use a hacksaw to trim it to length.
If the heights don't line up with the sink drain, you can either put in an extension, or replace the end tube to length.
In this picture there are bendable joints and fittings which will leak in the long run much of the time because they are always under strain. They also tend to clog up because they are not smooth. Try not to use bendable fittings even though they seem "easier".
Tools:
Channellock slip joint pliers
Teflon Tape
Teflon Pipe goop (thin coating over teflon tape
Plastic paint roller tray
Good music
Tips:
If anything is not sitting just right when installed loosely, make it line up well. Don't force things to line up.
Neat and clean from beginning to end.
Hand tight everything. Barely needing to use the pliers or you will burn the plastic threads.
If the pipes put strain on the downspout line, it can cause the upper sink collar area to leak.
Eye protection as everything falls downward, water, gunk, etc.
If the system is old, dried plumbers putty might come loose from the sink drain collar area. You may have to start from scratch and disassemble from there down and get everything sealed in just right.
Don't cheat and try to caulk or silicon or JB weld any joints that are leaking.
* If your wall drain is a metal pipe/galvanized. Be extremely careful with the end threading. If it has any rust or internal corrosion, this area get's thin and can break. The "slip joint" collar and washer has a tough time making a seal. Replacing that section requires opening up the wall if it get's tough to replace.
Your picture looks like it can get tight where the "P" trap swivels into the downspout line up. If so, you might have to put in an offset.
Here's a link about that with pictures:
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions ... -with-trap
Double offset or Single offset. Whichever fits best.
j
Disassemble everything from the wall drain.
Install a "slip collar" on the existing wall drain end thread, clean well, use teflon tape and also plumbers teflon pipe goop. Do not overtighten. Install everything loose first.
This new "P" trap system comes in a bag with all the parts that go from the "P" trap to the wall. The length of the horizontal slip drain pipe can vary so be sure not to buy a set where it is too short. You can always use a hacksaw to trim it to length.
If the heights don't line up with the sink drain, you can either put in an extension, or replace the end tube to length.
In this picture there are bendable joints and fittings which will leak in the long run much of the time because they are always under strain. They also tend to clog up because they are not smooth. Try not to use bendable fittings even though they seem "easier".
Tools:
Channellock slip joint pliers
Teflon Tape
Teflon Pipe goop (thin coating over teflon tape
Plastic paint roller tray
Good music
Tips:
If anything is not sitting just right when installed loosely, make it line up well. Don't force things to line up.
Neat and clean from beginning to end.
Hand tight everything. Barely needing to use the pliers or you will burn the plastic threads.
If the pipes put strain on the downspout line, it can cause the upper sink collar area to leak.
Eye protection as everything falls downward, water, gunk, etc.
If the system is old, dried plumbers putty might come loose from the sink drain collar area. You may have to start from scratch and disassemble from there down and get everything sealed in just right.
Don't cheat and try to caulk or silicon or JB weld any joints that are leaking.
* If your wall drain is a metal pipe/galvanized. Be extremely careful with the end threading. If it has any rust or internal corrosion, this area get's thin and can break. The "slip joint" collar and washer has a tough time making a seal. Replacing that section requires opening up the wall if it get's tough to replace.
Your picture looks like it can get tight where the "P" trap swivels into the downspout line up. If so, you might have to put in an offset.
Here's a link about that with pictures:
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions ... -with-trap
Double offset or Single offset. Whichever fits best.
j
Last edited by Sandtrap on Sat Dec 11, 2021 8:54 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
+2. This is the answer.Fat Tails wrote: ↑Sat Dec 11, 2021 1:53 am+1 This, plus you can get an extension to the down pipe from the sink to get the p-trap to the same level as the wall pipe.Saving$ wrote: ↑Fri Dec 10, 2021 10:52 pm You buy a 33 or 45 to offset the tailpipe coming out of the wall so that it can meet the p-trap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OSgwpteR4
Do not. DO NOT, use accordion tailpieces or traps. It is amateur work, it captures grime, hair, blockages, and it is not allowed by code in many places.
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
Lots of good advice above. Take some pics & go to a store with a decent plumbing department. They will point you in the right direction.
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
This x1000. Never use those accordion things. As Tubes states, they are against code.Tubes wrote: ↑Sat Dec 11, 2021 8:19 am+2. This is the answer.Fat Tails wrote: ↑Sat Dec 11, 2021 1:53 am+1 This, plus you can get an extension to the down pipe from the sink to get the p-trap to the same level as the wall pipe.Saving$ wrote: ↑Fri Dec 10, 2021 10:52 pm You buy a 33 or 45 to offset the tailpipe coming out of the wall so that it can meet the p-trap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OSgwpteR4
Do not. DO NOT, use accordion tailpieces or traps. It is amateur work, it captures grime, hair, blockages, and it is not allowed by code in many places.
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
I am aware that the accordion flex-pipe is a definite no-no, but does anyone have experience with Fernco flexible couplings and adapters? Do they typically meet code?
Re: Bathroom Plumbing help
Are you still messing with that original picture?
Yes, Fernco are ok, when used appropriately. Typically, when a plumber says "Fernco" they just mean a straight pipe to pipe coupler. Fernco makes a lot of other types of couplers, so when you say Fernco, you might be wondering about a different product.
If you are still messing with the your original setup...
Remove the elbow from the wall. I can't see behind the elbow, but the most likely thing is that it is a threaded pipe. Just turn the elbow counter clockwise. You'll be left with a threaded pipe coming out of the wall. It is possible the pipe is soldered to a copper waste pipe. If so, you can unsolder it with a propane torch. If you haven't done anything like this before, you can light something inside the wall on fire and you should get a plumber.
If that waste plumbing is inside a cabinet, you don't care if it is metal or plastic pipe, and you should go with PVC pipe. Take the elbow you unscrewed to Home Depot and buy the same size thread adapter. This will adapt from the threads on the pipe in the wall to a piece of PCV and the other side of the PCV adapter is smooth inside and is for solvent welding more PVC pieces. The pipe size will be 1 1/4" or 1 1/2". Buy a 22.5 degree fitting and 1- foot section of straight PVC pipe and a PCV trap and a 1 1/4" trap adapter. Get rid of the metal trap that is on the bottom of the sink, but leave the metal tailpiece (the metal straight up and down piece). Get some PVC solvent and cleaner...get the one that is small in size and packaged together. You will see how it all goes together.