Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Hi all,
My DW suddenly decided to go there in Aug/Sep. After googling a little bit I got really confused. The park is so huge that I'm not even getting where we should stay. Crazy amount of trails - which one are the best for first timers? Some sites suggest to book a bus tour around the lakes. others suggest driving
We're planning a week, can do moderate trails.
My DW suddenly decided to go there in Aug/Sep. After googling a little bit I got really confused. The park is so huge that I'm not even getting where we should stay. Crazy amount of trails - which one are the best for first timers? Some sites suggest to book a bus tour around the lakes. others suggest driving
We're planning a week, can do moderate trails.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
September: The time for the newly wed and the nearly dead because school is in session. Snow is possible.
The first time one goes to Yellowstone, I think one should consider using a car to see the sights since the park is huge. Sure, there are short trails of about 0.5 mile or less on little out-and-back to special sights that one can do and will do, but this is not a true hiking nor backpacking trip. My recommendation is to stay in a lodge centrally located in the park if you can get reservations. There are several to choose from, but not all will be available. Each of the major in-park lodges are located near natural attractions and all the others are within an hour or two drive, so you can spend a day near each one easily and get back to your homebase lodge every day.
Fly into Jackson Hole and drive up in your rental car with a stay in the Grand Teton NP on the way.
The first time one goes to Yellowstone, I think one should consider using a car to see the sights since the park is huge. Sure, there are short trails of about 0.5 mile or less on little out-and-back to special sights that one can do and will do, but this is not a true hiking nor backpacking trip. My recommendation is to stay in a lodge centrally located in the park if you can get reservations. There are several to choose from, but not all will be available. Each of the major in-park lodges are located near natural attractions and all the others are within an hour or two drive, so you can spend a day near each one easily and get back to your homebase lodge every day.
Fly into Jackson Hole and drive up in your rental car with a stay in the Grand Teton NP on the way.
Last edited by livesoft on Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
They have trails, but people go there to watch gorgeous geysers; Old Faithful being the most famous geyser. Geyser watching doesn't require hard-core hiking. If you're thinking of mountain hiking, Yellowstone isn't the place.
If you can stay inside the park that'd be best (though more expensive). When I went there, we stayed in Gardiner, MT and had to drive an hour to enter the park daily.
If you can stay inside the park that'd be best (though more expensive). When I went there, we stayed in Gardiner, MT and had to drive an hour to enter the park daily.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We are just leaving the area. We had to stay in Rexburg, Idaho due to everything being booked. I wouldn’t suggest that but it was the only thing close available and we had an hour and a half drive to the west entrance and to the Grand Tetons. We only did the hike to the various views of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, definitely do that. If you get a chance to go to the Grand Tetons, take the boat around Jenny Lake and hike to Hidden Falls and then to Inspiration Point. Seemed moderate to me. We had our 72 mother in law with us and she did that except to inspiration point as she didn’t like the height. You’ll do a lot of driving around in Yellowstone and we saw moose, elk, fox, caribou, tons of chipmunks and gophers and a mama bear and cub on the last day. Most importantly get there EARLY. We got there around 7:30 AM each day and wasn’t bad but by 10 AM all the popular places are PACKED!
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
You may have a tough time with reservations on such short notice. We went last summer during the pandemic on reservations made about a year in advance. I think your odds of booking within the park are virtually zero.
The park is massive. We stayed in Jackson, WY for 3 nights and took in the Tetons, hit the south end of the Yellowstone on our way to West Yellowstone, MT where we stayed for 3 nights, then moved on to Gardner, MT for our last 3 nights and the sites on the north end of the park.
I suggest getting a travel guide off amazon. There are dozens. Try to plan stops efficiently, but know that you will spend a lot of time driving. It's an enormous wilderness. No way I'd take a bus tour since I wouldn't be able to handle not being in control of where I was going.
There are a lot of easy to moderate hikes and boardwalks in Yellowstone. You can spend a good week there taking it pretty easy or hiking until you drop.
The park is massive. We stayed in Jackson, WY for 3 nights and took in the Tetons, hit the south end of the Yellowstone on our way to West Yellowstone, MT where we stayed for 3 nights, then moved on to Gardner, MT for our last 3 nights and the sites on the north end of the park.
I suggest getting a travel guide off amazon. There are dozens. Try to plan stops efficiently, but know that you will spend a lot of time driving. It's an enormous wilderness. No way I'd take a bus tour since I wouldn't be able to handle not being in control of where I was going.
There are a lot of easy to moderate hikes and boardwalks in Yellowstone. You can spend a good week there taking it pretty easy or hiking until you drop.
“Having, first, gained all you can, and, secondly saved all you can, then give all you can.” - John Wesley
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We had never been to a national park before but we decided to take a road trip out there last year. We were coming from Iowa so keep that in mind.
We spent a day/night in Ft. Collins because I'm a craft beer fan.
Then spent two nights in Jackson Hole and used that as a base for Grand Teton's. A lot of people blow off the Grand Tetons and just talk about Yellowstone. The truth is that the views and wildlife were amazing at both. We saw the most bears in the Grand tetons.
The third day we drove up and checked out the south part of Yellowstone and used Gardner as our base for the next three days. We spent two of those days just checking out the main attractions that you hear about. We spent the third day checking out west Yellowstone. We just had free time, which was great because we got to experience a lot of wildlife. Gardner was kind of dead so we spent about a 1/2 day driving up to Bosemen. I can see why everyone is moving there.
On the day out we checked out Lamar Valley, which was great, and then headed up the beartooth pass and then headed east home. I didn't love Cody like a lot of other people.
The driving inside of Yellowstone is pretty stress free if you just go slow and are not in a hurry. We were probably stopped 4-5 hours during our trip for Bison crossing.
Here is some video I took
https://youtu.be/crduF6mx9LY
We spent a day/night in Ft. Collins because I'm a craft beer fan.
Then spent two nights in Jackson Hole and used that as a base for Grand Teton's. A lot of people blow off the Grand Tetons and just talk about Yellowstone. The truth is that the views and wildlife were amazing at both. We saw the most bears in the Grand tetons.
The third day we drove up and checked out the south part of Yellowstone and used Gardner as our base for the next three days. We spent two of those days just checking out the main attractions that you hear about. We spent the third day checking out west Yellowstone. We just had free time, which was great because we got to experience a lot of wildlife. Gardner was kind of dead so we spent about a 1/2 day driving up to Bosemen. I can see why everyone is moving there.
On the day out we checked out Lamar Valley, which was great, and then headed up the beartooth pass and then headed east home. I didn't love Cody like a lot of other people.
The driving inside of Yellowstone is pretty stress free if you just go slow and are not in a hurry. We were probably stopped 4-5 hours during our trip for Bison crossing.
Here is some video I took
https://youtu.be/crduF6mx9LY
Last edited by dsmclone on Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
start with the NPS site: https://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/index.htm
It's a big place with lots of driving if you want to see everything...so decide what's most important to you first. Then zero in on those options.
If you go in September, things will be a LOT less crowded...but you'll have to do a little more planning ahead, as some of the tourist facilities close after Labor Day. We made sure to have water and snacks in the car.
It's a big place with lots of driving if you want to see everything...so decide what's most important to you first. Then zero in on those options.
If you go in September, things will be a LOT less crowded...but you'll have to do a little more planning ahead, as some of the tourist facilities close after Labor Day. We made sure to have water and snacks in the car.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
This is a lot like what a group of four adults did three years ago. Great trip. OP; I wouldn't go near the place this year for anything in season and would probably pass all together until off season 2022. It's a great park and a lot of area to cover but it's the last place you want to be with high traffic.marti038 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:26 am You may have a tough time with reservations on such short notice. We went last summer during the pandemic on reservations made about a year in advance. I think your odds of booking within the park are virtually zero.
The park is massive. We stayed in Jackson, WY for 3 nights and took in the Tetons, hit the south end of the Yellowstone on our way to West Yellowstone, MT where we stayed for 3 nights, then moved on to Gardner, MT for our last 3 nights and the sites on the north end of the park.
I suggest getting a travel guide off amazon. There are dozens. Try to plan stops efficiently, but know that you will spend a lot of time driving. It's an enormous wilderness. No way I'd take a bus tour since I wouldn't be able to handle not being in control of where I was going.
There are a lot of easy to moderate hikes and boardwalks in Yellowstone. You can spend a good week there taking it pretty easy or hiking until you drop.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
There are lots of old threads about Yellowstone that you can look up by using the search box in the top right corner of most screens.
You are way too late to be planning plan it for this year.
With virtually no international travel all the big national parks are swamped this year.
You might get lucky and find some last minute openings if you are willing to pay top dollar but you would be in the situation were you would need to take what can find instead of worrying about the best way to do it.
You may have better luck after Labor Day but be aware that by in September you will start getting ice on the roads in the morning and a possibility of some snow by late September.
One big problem there is a rental car shortage so if you want to fly into some place and rent a car it may be difficult to get reservations or the rental car price may be very high. Pay a lot of attention to getting a rental car reservation.
One way to go there is to fly into Salt Lake city(or some other smaller city) and rent a car. There are only a few hotels in the park and even in a normal year they are expensive and likely booked a year in advance. The place with the most hotels outside the park is West Yellowstone so if you can find a room there you could use that as a base.
From West Yellowstone plan on getting up very early each day to get into the park and beat the crowds. Even in a normal year during mid day there may not be any parking at some of the attractions near the roads. Plan on seeing these early or late in the day and be on a trail during mid day. The vast majority of visitors do not get more than a couple of hundred yards from the main roads so plan on doing some hiking to get away from the crowds.
You are way too late to be planning plan it for this year.
With virtually no international travel all the big national parks are swamped this year.
You might get lucky and find some last minute openings if you are willing to pay top dollar but you would be in the situation were you would need to take what can find instead of worrying about the best way to do it.
You may have better luck after Labor Day but be aware that by in September you will start getting ice on the roads in the morning and a possibility of some snow by late September.
One big problem there is a rental car shortage so if you want to fly into some place and rent a car it may be difficult to get reservations or the rental car price may be very high. Pay a lot of attention to getting a rental car reservation.
One way to go there is to fly into Salt Lake city(or some other smaller city) and rent a car. There are only a few hotels in the park and even in a normal year they are expensive and likely booked a year in advance. The place with the most hotels outside the park is West Yellowstone so if you can find a room there you could use that as a base.
From West Yellowstone plan on getting up very early each day to get into the park and beat the crowds. Even in a normal year during mid day there may not be any parking at some of the attractions near the roads. Plan on seeing these early or late in the day and be on a trail during mid day. The vast majority of visitors do not get more than a couple of hundred yards from the main roads so plan on doing some hiking to get away from the crowds.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We went last year in late September and it was more crowded at that time of year than I had ever seen it in June-August previously, which kind of blew my mind. I would give it a miss this year to be honest. Also, there is a lot of coordination to be done with accommodations and flights/rental cars if you haven't squared that away yet. In my experience you really need to stay inside the park; arguably you can stay in Gardiner MT because it has easy access to Mammoth Hot Springs and the Lamar Valley, but staying outside the park will add hours of driving to the hours of driving you'll already be doing.
You need to be prepared for the sheer scale of the park--driving between different attractions can take hours and this is understandably exacerbated by crowds. When it is crowded it can be a pretty un-fun experience: parking is a chore, eating and buying gas is tedious, finding bathrooms is not as easy as you'd expect, etc.
What has always worked for us is having a plan for every single day and prioritizing what we want to do at sunrise and sunset when things are typically less crowded and then using the middle of the day to travel to further flung corners of the park and do something chill like have a picnic along the shores of Lake Yellowstone or walk a few miles of an out of the way hiking trail that may not have views or attractions but isn't choked with people or just park the car somewhere shaded or pretty and read a book for a while.
You need to be prepared for the sheer scale of the park--driving between different attractions can take hours and this is understandably exacerbated by crowds. When it is crowded it can be a pretty un-fun experience: parking is a chore, eating and buying gas is tedious, finding bathrooms is not as easy as you'd expect, etc.
What has always worked for us is having a plan for every single day and prioritizing what we want to do at sunrise and sunset when things are typically less crowded and then using the middle of the day to travel to further flung corners of the park and do something chill like have a picnic along the shores of Lake Yellowstone or walk a few miles of an out of the way hiking trail that may not have views or attractions but isn't choked with people or just park the car somewhere shaded or pretty and read a book for a while.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
DW and I made a trip to the Yellowstone area about 30 years ago. We've done a lot of traveling in the states, and seen many of the national parks. The Grand Teton/Yellowstone area trip was one of, if not, the most enjoyable. One reason is all the large animals we saw. Yellowstone is the best place for seeing large animals in the lower 48.
Anyway, I don't remember all the details of our itinerary, but to the best of my recollection, we flew into Idaho Falls and stayed overnight. Then drove our rental car to the Jackson Hole/Grand Teton area and stayed over night. (The scenery is spectacular in the Jackson Hole/Grand Teton area. It's well worth including in a trip to the Yellowstone area.) From there we drove into Yellowstone and stayed in a cabin within the park. I think it was in either the Lake Lodge or Canyon Lodge complex. (It may be too late to get reservations for September. Those places are usually booked up pretty far in advance.) Our next overnight was in Gardner Montana. After that we stayed in the town of West Yellowstone before returning to Idaho Falls for our flight out.
We primarily did sightseeing from our car. However, also rode a tram to the top of a mountain in the Grand Teton area, did some shopping in Jackson, WY; went on a several hour guided horseback ride, looked around in some of the older lodges, took some short hikes, and visited some of the geothermal features including Old Faithful. We saw many of the large animals founds at the park, and I went fly fishing almost every evening.
Hope I gave you some ideas. I think the trip took eight or nine days.
Anyway, I don't remember all the details of our itinerary, but to the best of my recollection, we flew into Idaho Falls and stayed overnight. Then drove our rental car to the Jackson Hole/Grand Teton area and stayed over night. (The scenery is spectacular in the Jackson Hole/Grand Teton area. It's well worth including in a trip to the Yellowstone area.) From there we drove into Yellowstone and stayed in a cabin within the park. I think it was in either the Lake Lodge or Canyon Lodge complex. (It may be too late to get reservations for September. Those places are usually booked up pretty far in advance.) Our next overnight was in Gardner Montana. After that we stayed in the town of West Yellowstone before returning to Idaho Falls for our flight out.
We primarily did sightseeing from our car. However, also rode a tram to the top of a mountain in the Grand Teton area, did some shopping in Jackson, WY; went on a several hour guided horseback ride, looked around in some of the older lodges, took some short hikes, and visited some of the geothermal features including Old Faithful. We saw many of the large animals founds at the park, and I went fly fishing almost every evening.
Hope I gave you some ideas. I think the trip took eight or nine days.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We went last year to Yellowstone and Grand Teton, staying outside the parks because everything inside was booked. Would not recommend due to the travel time and backups at the entrance gate (esp W Yellowstone gate).
This year we planned ahead and are staying inside the parks (camping and lodges) because we reserved in time. I'm already regretting our August dates though - wish we had done late Aug/early Sept but by the time I realized how bad the 2021 crowds will be, it was too late to change. If you have a choice, definitely do your trip in early September so that you'll miss *some* of the crowds. You might still be able to get lodging inside the park, especially if you are willing to move (spend 1 night in one lodge, 2 nights in the next, etc,). Be prepared to pay top $ for not-so-great accommodations. And the food...don't get me started on the lack of options which are expensive and also not-so-great.
As far as what to do - check out their website as others have already mentioned. Early morning and late afternoon are the lowest crowds at the top tourist sites. Our plan for this year's trip is to get an early start at the popular sites and then be back at our campground or lodge by lunch, then head out again in late afternoon to see more wildlife/sights.
We used the alltrails app/website to find hikes appropriate to our skill level and desired distance.
Both parks are truly magical. I don't say that about many places. Last year was our first visit and we immediately started planning this year's visit because we only scratched the surface.
This year we planned ahead and are staying inside the parks (camping and lodges) because we reserved in time. I'm already regretting our August dates though - wish we had done late Aug/early Sept but by the time I realized how bad the 2021 crowds will be, it was too late to change. If you have a choice, definitely do your trip in early September so that you'll miss *some* of the crowds. You might still be able to get lodging inside the park, especially if you are willing to move (spend 1 night in one lodge, 2 nights in the next, etc,). Be prepared to pay top $ for not-so-great accommodations. And the food...don't get me started on the lack of options which are expensive and also not-so-great.
As far as what to do - check out their website as others have already mentioned. Early morning and late afternoon are the lowest crowds at the top tourist sites. Our plan for this year's trip is to get an early start at the popular sites and then be back at our campground or lodge by lunch, then head out again in late afternoon to see more wildlife/sights.
We used the alltrails app/website to find hikes appropriate to our skill level and desired distance.
Both parks are truly magical. I don't say that about many places. Last year was our first visit and we immediately started planning this year's visit because we only scratched the surface.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
The Lodges get cancellations all the time. I was told by someone directly involved in the reservations that checking often for cancellations is one way to get a reservation. However, I think that's more for people who have flexibility and not for people who need to build on flights, rental cars, etc.
When we went, we stayed in the middle of park in a 3 bedroom home with park employees. What a lucky treat!
When we went, we stayed in the middle of park in a 3 bedroom home with park employees. What a lucky treat!
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Happy to do my best with advice; feel free to message megogreen wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:14 am Hi all,
My DW suddenly decided to go there in Aug/Sep. After googling a little bit I got really confused. The park is so huge that I'm not even getting where we should stay. Crazy amount of trails - which one are the best for first timers? Some sites suggest to book a bus tour around the lakes. others suggest driving
We're planning a week, can do moderate trails.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
As noted, the park is huge and lodging is difficult.
I recommend organizing lodging and a rental car first. Where you stay will determine which trails and attractions are more accessible.
I stayed at both Old Faithful Inn and nearby more modern lodges. Old Faithful Inn is nice to walk through but a less desirable place to stay.
I recommend organizing lodging and a rental car first. Where you stay will determine which trails and attractions are more accessible.
I stayed at both Old Faithful Inn and nearby more modern lodges. Old Faithful Inn is nice to walk through but a less desirable place to stay.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Good friend of mine is a tour guide at Yellowstone and has said this year is particularly crazy. He's doing 12 hour days 6 days a week doing private tours in the park. Not a problem for him cuz he absolutely loves his job and the park but just shows how busy it is this year.
I'll echo others advice here, you're probably already too late to get a spot in the park (though as livesoft said, check cancellations, that's how we got a room one year). Sept is when the crowds die down but no idea how much it will happen this year. Sept is also when snow can start and ruin a trip too though.
If you're coming from outside the park you need to get up super early, IE, be at the gate by sunrise. This stops you from having to wait in line just to get in and also gives you access to popular park destinations where you don't need to worry as much about parking or crowds.
The park is absolutely massive and is total sensory overload if you do it too quickly. If you're there for a week I'd pick a section of the park to tackle each day.
If you really want to get away from crowds, go for a hike. Once you get a half mile from the parking lot, you won't see many people. Most people just park at the major sights and never venture onto trails. If you do that, be sure to bring bear spray.
You can get private tours of the park (like the company my friend works for). That will cost money but it also lets you choose where/what you want to see and do (vs a big bus tour) and a tour company will be able to point out certain things you may have otherwise missed. For example, my friends company spends a lot of time keeping track of the wildlife in the park, so they know where to go each day to see specific wildlife.
I'd also highly recommend visiting the Tetons while you're there since it's connected to Yellowstone but you could also spend a week there by itself.
I'll echo others advice here, you're probably already too late to get a spot in the park (though as livesoft said, check cancellations, that's how we got a room one year). Sept is when the crowds die down but no idea how much it will happen this year. Sept is also when snow can start and ruin a trip too though.
If you're coming from outside the park you need to get up super early, IE, be at the gate by sunrise. This stops you from having to wait in line just to get in and also gives you access to popular park destinations where you don't need to worry as much about parking or crowds.
The park is absolutely massive and is total sensory overload if you do it too quickly. If you're there for a week I'd pick a section of the park to tackle each day.
If you really want to get away from crowds, go for a hike. Once you get a half mile from the parking lot, you won't see many people. Most people just park at the major sights and never venture onto trails. If you do that, be sure to bring bear spray.
You can get private tours of the park (like the company my friend works for). That will cost money but it also lets you choose where/what you want to see and do (vs a big bus tour) and a tour company will be able to point out certain things you may have otherwise missed. For example, my friends company spends a lot of time keeping track of the wildlife in the park, so they know where to go each day to see specific wildlife.
I'd also highly recommend visiting the Tetons while you're there since it's connected to Yellowstone but you could also spend a week there by itself.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We went in 2016, camped at the Madison campground concession, our time was limited by ability to get a reservation 6 months! in advance. Before that we were at a KOA in Cody, Wyoming, and before our first day at the campsite we did a 110-mile round trip to Yellowstone Lake and back, mostly to be able to take a leisurely drive on the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway (and then be able to drive without stopping the day we had to get to Yellowstone). We were glad we did, the Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway met our expectations.
We spent four full days. Just as easygoing tourists, parking at parking lots and walk a mile or so to see what was to be seen.
On the one hand, it was quite wonderful. On the other hand I would say "be prepared to do a lot of driving," with stops for other cars stopped for wildlife, buffalo in the roads, road closures, etc. So there was some driving stress. There was also some competing-with-crowds stress, even in places that were not the top-famous "attractions." There was some full-parking-lot-at-the-place-we-planned-to-go stress.
Old Faithful is really the only geyser that is "scheduled," although they post predictions for two or three others. So if you want to "see geysers" you have to relax and be willing to spend time and take chances. One of them, quite a big one, did conveniently go off just as we happened to be going by. There are several that just bubble and spout ten feet up all the time.
I lost a mini-debate with my wife. There is a viewpoint from which you can look down on Old Faithful and much of a whole geyser basin and see multiple geysers at once; I wanted to go there but my wife felt "we've already seen Old Faithful, I want to see something else."
The Grand Prismatic Spring was really impressive to me, one of the geothermal-stuff highlights.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is really impressive, too. Well worth it.
I always wanted to see columnar basalt ever since I saw a picture of the Giant's Causeway in a geology book, and I don't expect to get to the Giant's Causeway so it was a big thing for me to get to see it in the Tower Falls area.
And I'm glad we went to Mammoth Hot Springs although it was perhaps not the biggest highlight of the trip.
By the way, one thing they don't ever seem to mention in the guidebooks, is that in any kind of geothermal hot springs area... well... there is a fairly noticeable "rude smell." Somehow the pictures don't capture that! It's all part of the experience. But you might as well not be surprised by it.
We spent four full days. Just as easygoing tourists, parking at parking lots and walk a mile or so to see what was to be seen.
On the one hand, it was quite wonderful. On the other hand I would say "be prepared to do a lot of driving," with stops for other cars stopped for wildlife, buffalo in the roads, road closures, etc. So there was some driving stress. There was also some competing-with-crowds stress, even in places that were not the top-famous "attractions." There was some full-parking-lot-at-the-place-we-planned-to-go stress.
Old Faithful is really the only geyser that is "scheduled," although they post predictions for two or three others. So if you want to "see geysers" you have to relax and be willing to spend time and take chances. One of them, quite a big one, did conveniently go off just as we happened to be going by. There are several that just bubble and spout ten feet up all the time.
I lost a mini-debate with my wife. There is a viewpoint from which you can look down on Old Faithful and much of a whole geyser basin and see multiple geysers at once; I wanted to go there but my wife felt "we've already seen Old Faithful, I want to see something else."
The Grand Prismatic Spring was really impressive to me, one of the geothermal-stuff highlights.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is really impressive, too. Well worth it.
I always wanted to see columnar basalt ever since I saw a picture of the Giant's Causeway in a geology book, and I don't expect to get to the Giant's Causeway so it was a big thing for me to get to see it in the Tower Falls area.
And I'm glad we went to Mammoth Hot Springs although it was perhaps not the biggest highlight of the trip.
By the way, one thing they don't ever seem to mention in the guidebooks, is that in any kind of geothermal hot springs area... well... there is a fairly noticeable "rude smell." Somehow the pictures don't capture that! It's all part of the experience. But you might as well not be surprised by it.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
remember that the Fishing Bridge campground, which has the full hookup RV sites, is STILL under construction improvements and so not available (we had ended the season a couple of years ago at it... it then closed down...and COVID caused massive construction delay since). That's hundreds of sites that aren't available!! and the only full hookup inside the park.
As for lodges, we've been at the main Yellowstone lodge (but could only get a couple of nights, but there were a few cabins nearby (but those are almost as difficult to book). The site up closer to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone called the Canyon Lodge (off Norris at the loop road) "might" be easier... but it's still very difficult. otherwise, west yellowstone would be your best bet... but I'm sure they know it too and price it accordingly...and that's IF you can get in. (There's supposed to be some lodging near Tower Junction (and I seem to recall something like a dude ranch near it) but we didn't stay near there anytime). {we have stayed as far away as Victor for Jackson and the Tetons, when it gets really crazy since sometimes there's just no where else (except for some truly crazy prices) to stay... and we had a RV trailer}
ETA: Nisi, the location you are thinking of is around Pump Geyser (on geyser hill). It overlooks Old Faithful at a bit of distance, but it's still very visible. We were fortunate the last time that Giant Geyser went off (just before we had planned to leave) as it's fairly infrequent but spectacular when it does.
..and OP, it's a fairly long walk to do the whole geyser basin (the loop from the visitors center to morning glory and around to the rest of the geysers back to the center) so pace yourself, bring water, and have good shoes
As for lodges, we've been at the main Yellowstone lodge (but could only get a couple of nights, but there were a few cabins nearby (but those are almost as difficult to book). The site up closer to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone called the Canyon Lodge (off Norris at the loop road) "might" be easier... but it's still very difficult. otherwise, west yellowstone would be your best bet... but I'm sure they know it too and price it accordingly...and that's IF you can get in. (There's supposed to be some lodging near Tower Junction (and I seem to recall something like a dude ranch near it) but we didn't stay near there anytime). {we have stayed as far away as Victor for Jackson and the Tetons, when it gets really crazy since sometimes there's just no where else (except for some truly crazy prices) to stay... and we had a RV trailer}
ETA: Nisi, the location you are thinking of is around Pump Geyser (on geyser hill). It overlooks Old Faithful at a bit of distance, but it's still very visible. We were fortunate the last time that Giant Geyser went off (just before we had planned to leave) as it's fairly infrequent but spectacular when it does.
..and OP, it's a fairly long walk to do the whole geyser basin (the loop from the visitors center to morning glory and around to the rest of the geysers back to the center) so pace yourself, bring water, and have good shoes
Last edited by Nestegg_User on Mon Jun 28, 2021 1:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Just did a trip in early June with wife and our girls (9 and 6) and planned on fairly short notice (booked everything beginning of March):
For food we at breakfast/dinner near hotel and stocked up at Walmart in Bozeman on drinks, snacks and PB/honey sandwiches for lunches whenever we felt like stopping. We didn't have an ice chest so we kept to non-perishable items.
- Flew into Bozeman and flew out of Jackson Hole
- Direct non-stop flights from/to LAX were affordable ($250 roundtrip booked separately)
- Got very lucky on rental car booked through Costco (week long + different drop off = $670). Someone tried walking up without a reservation and was quoted $2500 for the week if they even had a car available.
- Stayed 2 nights at north gate in Gardiner, Lamar Valley and Mammoth first day
- Next night just outside east gate at Pahaska Tepee Resort, saw Canyon and other sights on way through
- Next night in West Yellowstone, on way through stopped at Lake Yellowstone, caught Old Faithful and walked the big loop there
- Next night in cabin at Coulter Bay. On way down south caught other big sights before they got too busy. Got lucky with the cabin reservation and structured entire trip around this one night, probably could have had one more day here to let kids play at the lake
- Next night in Jackson, Grand Tetons and rode gondola up at the ski resort, chuck wagon dinner. We skipped a hike at Jenny Lake in Tetons because parking was overflowing a 1/2 mile from trailhead.
- Lazy morning in Jackson, hit Museum of Wildlife Art on the way to airport.
For food we at breakfast/dinner near hotel and stocked up at Walmart in Bozeman on drinks, snacks and PB/honey sandwiches for lunches whenever we felt like stopping. We didn't have an ice chest so we kept to non-perishable items.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
I would avoid yellowstone in the summer like the plague. Always go there during the shoulder months. Late may is the best time to go. No crowds, all the animals are out. It is cooler then, but comfortable. It snowed one night we were there, couple inches. It was melted by noon.
We had no traffic jams due to stupid people stopping in the middle of the road for hours on end.
We had no traffic jams due to stupid people stopping in the middle of the road for hours on end.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
There is a loop trail near Old Faithful that has a bunch of smaller geysers. One of them has about a 10 minute cycle it goes through where it goes off, fills the pool, the pool drains, it bubbles for a while, then it goes off again. It's only a few feet high, so nothing spectacular, but it's cool to watch, and very predictable.nisiprius wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 12:44 pm
Old Faithful is really the only geyser that is "scheduled," although they post predictions for two or three others. So if you want to "see geysers" you have to relax and be willing to spend time and take chances. One of them, quite a big one, did conveniently go off just as we happened to be going by. There are several that just bubble and spout ten feet up all the time.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
If can't get anything close, I'd try to stay in Cody. Buffalo Bill Museum is awesome. Also, NE Y-stone entrance drive via Red Lodge, MT from Cody is one of the most awe-inspiring drives there is.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Consider the guided bus tour. If you have a small group you can attach to a small bus tour that takes 10-15 people. The guides know where the animals are that you want to see on the north side of the park and they arrange for you to see the geologic features/thermal features on the south side. Accommodations not luxe but not bad. Well worth the money to see the animals you haven't seen before without spending your time trying to scout the park for them yourself. Low hassle, reasonable price. The DIY is doable, but hard to see everything you see on an organized guided tour.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
You need to decide, first, what you want to do and what kind of tourists you are.gogreen wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:14 am Hi all,
My DW suddenly decided to go there in Aug/Sep. After googling a little bit I got really confused. The park is so huge that I'm not even getting where we should stay. Crazy amount of trails - which one are the best for first timers? Some sites suggest to book a bus tour around the lakes. others suggest driving
We're planning a week, can do moderate trails.
If you are the "check the box" type: then the itinerary listed above is good in that you will see: wolves, elk, moose, old faithful, buffalo, the hot springs terrace, geyser basin, blah blah blah, grand prismatic, grand canyon of the Y, etc. If this is what you want, you will be stressed by the "Bear(/Moose/Bison/Elk/squirrel) Jams" and parking constraints at the major viewpoints. And I think one of the roads on the east upper loop is closed for repair, so you will have to back track.
However, AHEM!, If you want to visit and get immersed in the environment, I recommend spending 4 days in the Tetons (use Signal Mountain Lodge as you base) and 3 days in Yellowstone (stay at the Northeast Entrance). The Tetons are ignored by a LOT of people, and thank goodness. 399 and her cubs are there, Oxbow Bend is there, Mormon Barn is there, Float on the Snake is there, Jenny Lake Boat trip to Hidden Falls trailhead, Hidden Falls trail and falls.
You can do your "check the box stuff" AND then RELAX in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Take one evening and two cheap camp chairs and you and the Mrs. just sit and watch the sunset over Grand T when at Oxbow Bend. Then, the next time that the boss has been a pill, traffic was terrible coming home, the kids are sick, the dog just barfed on the new carpet, and your brother-in-law is blathering on about his new BroDozer--you can just think about that sight.
I, obviously, am biased.
Two books: Yellowstone Treasures - THE definitive book.
Roads through time, A Roadside history ofJackson Hole, Sam Lightener (out of print, but the book store in Jackson has them)
BH pro-tip: if you join Grand Teton Association, you get a discount a Signal Mountain Lodge during shoulder season.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We are doing this…
…. In 2022.
I’m surprised you can even find rooms, the in-park lodges open up booking 12-15 months in advance and peak summer sell out very fast. Rental cars this year are also nuts. We are planning a north south route, fly to Bozeman, do a week in Yellowstone split between 2-3 hotels a couple days each. Then south to Grand Teton and do 3-4 days there then fly home from Jackson Hole.
It was a mad scramble to get the first lodge booked the day rooms where released, still waiting on one and only then will I book flights.
…. In 2022.
I’m surprised you can even find rooms, the in-park lodges open up booking 12-15 months in advance and peak summer sell out very fast. Rental cars this year are also nuts. We are planning a north south route, fly to Bozeman, do a week in Yellowstone split between 2-3 hotels a couple days each. Then south to Grand Teton and do 3-4 days there then fly home from Jackson Hole.
It was a mad scramble to get the first lodge booked the day rooms where released, still waiting on one and only then will I book flights.
- Random Musings
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
I love Yellowstone ...... but I would take a REALLY hard pass this year in August. I'm thinking Sept may be problematic this year. Always have visited before July or after Labor Day, stay inside the park and hit the popular spots early or later in the day. Went in late June three years ago, no problems.
Take into consideration there is road construction this year on the NE part of the figure eight loop - Canyon Junction up to Tower-Roosevelt is completely closed - so that will add to overall park congestion.
RM
Take into consideration there is road construction this year on the NE part of the figure eight loop - Canyon Junction up to Tower-Roosevelt is completely closed - so that will add to overall park congestion.
RM
I figure the odds be fifty-fifty I just might have something to say. FZ
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
+1 crowds and traffic this year. Stressful. I thought they were requiring reservations too. Maybe that has changed (or was mentioned above and I missed it).
Yosemite National Park began requiring advanced reservations for day-use access to the park on May 21, 2021, through Sept. 30, 2021
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We booked flights in and out of West Yellowstone this September, and then made motel reservations there. We then started making reservations in the park through their reservations system. And have now dropped WY rooms. Rooms have been opening up frequently this year as capacity in the park has increased. The system updates every 15 minutes. This is not a normal year and I am sure you will get rooms booked in the park if you are still a few months out.
https://secure.yellowstonenationalparkl ... nation=ALL
https://secure.yellowstonenationalparkl ... nation=ALL
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We are going Mid July to GNTP & YS. I have spent hours researching. Here would be my advice that I wish I knew at beginning:
1) make sure you can get a rental car or TURO early. If you don't have one you may be SOL as costs are crazy. We got 10 days for $800ish in March same care was over $7500 when I looked about a month ago.
2) YS lodging- inside park is not as booked as told, at least not this year. I booked in park lodging in March. In normal years you can hold the reservation up until 30 days with no fee. So start re-checking your dates 30 days prior. Even if you hold up to 8 days prior there is only a $25 cancellation fee. This year that fee is waived so you can hold reservations until 8 days before you go for no fee. I swapped both of my in park reservations, for travel starting in 2 weeks, last week. May not be the case every year. You do have to be a little flexible though.
3) The North gate and West gate have webcams that you can see through the day. We are staying away from West Yellowstone but that gate seems to be the most travelled. Its backed up around 6:30-7am most days. Around 11am to 12pm its empty. So either really early or after lunch seem to be best times to get in.
Happy planning.
1) make sure you can get a rental car or TURO early. If you don't have one you may be SOL as costs are crazy. We got 10 days for $800ish in March same care was over $7500 when I looked about a month ago.
2) YS lodging- inside park is not as booked as told, at least not this year. I booked in park lodging in March. In normal years you can hold the reservation up until 30 days with no fee. So start re-checking your dates 30 days prior. Even if you hold up to 8 days prior there is only a $25 cancellation fee. This year that fee is waived so you can hold reservations until 8 days before you go for no fee. I swapped both of my in park reservations, for travel starting in 2 weeks, last week. May not be the case every year. You do have to be a little flexible though.
3) The North gate and West gate have webcams that you can see through the day. We are staying away from West Yellowstone but that gate seems to be the most travelled. Its backed up around 6:30-7am most days. Around 11am to 12pm its empty. So either really early or after lunch seem to be best times to get in.
Happy planning.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Stay in the Park. There is a hotel 200 yards from the "old faithful" geyser.Marseille07 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:21 am They have trails, but people go there to watch gorgeous geysers; Old Faithful being the most famous geyser. Geyser watching doesn't require hard-core hiking. If you're thinking of mountain hiking, Yellowstone isn't the place.
If you can stay inside the park that'd be best (though more expensive). When I went there, we stayed in Gardiner, MT and had to drive an hour to enter the park daily.
Ram
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Agree with above.livesoft wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:20 am September: The time for the newly wed and the nearly dead because school is in session. Snow is possible.
The first time one goes to Yellowstone, I think one should consider using a car to see the sights since the park is huge. Sure, there are short trails of about 0.5 mile or less on little out-and-back to special sights that one can do and will do, but this is not a true hiking nor backpacking trip. My recommendation is to stay in a lodge centrally located in the park if you can get reservations. There are several to choose from, but not all will be available. Each of the major in-park lodges are located near natural attractions and all the others are within an hour or two drive, so you can spend a day near each one easily and get back to your homebase lodge every day.
Fly into Jackson Hole and drive up in your rental car with a stay in the Grand Teton NP on the way.
We stayed one night in the lodge next to the old faithful and 3 nites at the lodge next to the lake inside the park a few yrs ago. (? Lake lodge). Makes life easier.
Ram
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
I Highly recommend the app "gyPSy Guide". It will connect through your car's bluetooth and it is a personal guide through the park. The voice gives some background info. on the area you are getting close to , and recommends or highly recommends stopping.gogreen wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 10:14 am Hi all,
My DW suddenly decided to go there in Aug/Sep. After googling a little bit I got really confused. The park is so huge that I'm not even getting where we should stay. Crazy amount of trails - which one are the best for first timers? Some sites suggest to book a bus tour around the lakes. others suggest driving
We're planning a week, can do moderate trails.
- backofbeyond
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
I grew up just outside the gates of YS. Used to go there several times of years in my youth. Went back last year for the first time in 25 years. A few things I didn't see in the comments above, but may be a BIG deal if you have young ones going with you. The park is blacked out when it comes to wifi. Yes, yes there are hotspots in some of the more touristy areas, like Old Faithful, but when we moved 50 yards from that spot..nothing. For my 20 something daughter, this was the kiss of death not knowing what all of the world was doing while we were enjoying the natural beauty. Next, we stayed at two park accommadations: Old Faithful and Mammoth Hot Springs. A room with two beds (queens) was well over $400. Neither had TV or A/C. And the only food available was like High School Cafeteria or a limit grocery store. I didn't mind either but wife and daughter were not overly impressed. We ended up going out of the park one night just to get regular food.
In today's world of 5G, 24 hour cable television and high dinning, YS offers an escape.
Just so you know, we ended up having a great time!
In today's world of 5G, 24 hour cable television and high dinning, YS offers an escape.
Just so you know, we ended up having a great time!
The question isn't at what age I want to retire, it is at what income. - George Foreman
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Just got back from Yellowstone and GTNP. A few thoughts:
1) Stay inside the park!!!! Even if that means 1980s themed OFI Snow lodge
2) The Lake Hotel is by far the nicest hotel in the park
3) Food options (besides burgers, hot dogs, soggy waffles) are very limited
4) Mammoth Hot Springs hotel driving south was key, as it opened up to more exciting spots
5) yes, it is "crowded". But nothing compared to WDW in summer time
6) Jackson Hole and Tetons is absolute must if you're travelling from far away. Easy to knock off 2 great parks
7) Don't even Stop at West Yellowstone. Ugh
two very highly recommended hotels:
- Springhill Suites in Jackson. Hot buffet, walking to SBUX and Orange Theory in building
- Wilson Residence Inn in Big Sky. This is like an upscale Westin/Hyatt Regency with free game room, in walkable "town center"
1) Stay inside the park!!!! Even if that means 1980s themed OFI Snow lodge
2) The Lake Hotel is by far the nicest hotel in the park
3) Food options (besides burgers, hot dogs, soggy waffles) are very limited
4) Mammoth Hot Springs hotel driving south was key, as it opened up to more exciting spots
5) yes, it is "crowded". But nothing compared to WDW in summer time
6) Jackson Hole and Tetons is absolute must if you're travelling from far away. Easy to knock off 2 great parks
7) Don't even Stop at West Yellowstone. Ugh
two very highly recommended hotels:
- Springhill Suites in Jackson. Hot buffet, walking to SBUX and Orange Theory in building
- Wilson Residence Inn in Big Sky. This is like an upscale Westin/Hyatt Regency with free game room, in walkable "town center"
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
Just got back from Yellowstone. Camped in park at Bridge Bay. The road through to Lamar valley (Canyon Village to Tower Roosevelt) is closed for the year, so all traffic is concentrated into the other areas. Unless you stay in the North or the NE entrance. Or are interested in driving 3 hours one way to get there from Bridge Bay. While Yellowstone is huge it has a limited road system.
We drove at dawn through Hayden Valley.
Every other place you want to go you best be there by 0830. Otherwise, you CANNOT BELIEVE the parking.
I was prepared for the crowds, but I was not really prepared for the parking.
Unless you are in the valleys, open spaces, or at an attraction, Yellowstone is mostly trees.
As for trails, best have the bear spray.
We drove at dawn through Hayden Valley.
Every other place you want to go you best be there by 0830. Otherwise, you CANNOT BELIEVE the parking.
I was prepared for the crowds, but I was not really prepared for the parking.
Unless you are in the valleys, open spaces, or at an attraction, Yellowstone is mostly trees.
As for trails, best have the bear spray.
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Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
FWIW The park superintendent at Harriman State Park (ID) likes to boast they have everything Yellowstone has, except geysers. It’s only a half hour from this state park to West Yellowstone (MT) from whence you can drive to the middle and upper geyser basins plus Old Faithful. Suggest McDonalds at 6:00am in West Yellowstone for takeout breakfast. Then Old Faithful Inn for a sit down breakfast before the buffet closes. Then back to Harriman to see the bears, elk, moose and migratory birds without any crowds. High likelihood of seeing bison on road in from West Yellowstone entrance. Good idea to be on this road before 7:00am
A good option if everything “federal” is full.
I live in the area.
I like to tell visitors who say they want to visit Yellowstone and are naive in their planning that it’s as big as Connecticut, but has five roads. (Not exactly true, but it makes the point.) There’s wildlife, geology and scenic beauty; pick two.
A good option if everything “federal” is full.
I live in the area.
I like to tell visitors who say they want to visit Yellowstone and are naive in their planning that it’s as big as Connecticut, but has five roads. (Not exactly true, but it makes the point.) There’s wildlife, geology and scenic beauty; pick two.
Investing - The hardest way to make an easy living.
Re: Planning trip to Yellowstone?
We also just got back from Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. We went as two families with 4 kids ages 6-11. We flew into Jackson Hole and rented cars. Some thoughts:
I preferred Yellowstone to the Grand Tetons. GT was more crowded and we encountered less wildlife. GT may be more interesting for serious hikers though.
We stayed in a cottage at Lake Yellowstone. Elk, bison, and even coyotes would wander through the cottage area. It was amazing.
The geysers are super cool, both the famous ones and the less famous ones.
Bring binoculars!
No one is wearing a mask there, even inside, not even kids.
The lines for dinner in Yellowstone were >1 hour. Food was mediocre.
I preferred Yellowstone to the Grand Tetons. GT was more crowded and we encountered less wildlife. GT may be more interesting for serious hikers though.
We stayed in a cottage at Lake Yellowstone. Elk, bison, and even coyotes would wander through the cottage area. It was amazing.
The geysers are super cool, both the famous ones and the less famous ones.
Bring binoculars!
No one is wearing a mask there, even inside, not even kids.
The lines for dinner in Yellowstone were >1 hour. Food was mediocre.