50 gallon water heater questions
50 gallon water heater questions
I got a few questions. I am soon to be new home owner, looks like we will inherit a 50 gallon water heater. I didn't look at the date of production yet but since the house was built in 2013 I presume it is now at least 8 years old. The mechanical room where the water heater is stored does not have a drain. This units is located in a fully furnished basement (which obviously I would not want to flood).
1. How often should I replace a water heater?
2. Is the lack of drain a huge concern?
3. Would investment into a tankless water heater be worth it?
1. How often should I replace a water heater?
2. Is the lack of drain a huge concern?
3. Would investment into a tankless water heater be worth it?
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
1. Water heaters usually last 10-15 years depending on how hard the water is.
2. If there is no utility sink or drain, the plumber will need to pump the water upstairs and outside.
3. Tankless conversion is tough. It needs a new larger sized gas pipe (replace 1/2" to 3/4") which can cost a bit depending on how difficult the run is. It also needs new duct/exhaust work. This can be fairly expensive as well. Expect to pay somewhere between $3,500-$4,500 for tankless vs. about $1,200 -$1,500 for a new 50 gallon.
If it were me, I'd stick with the tank. There is a water alarm system you can buy where you place it next to the water heater and plug it in. It detects any water leakage and signals an alarm.
2. If there is no utility sink or drain, the plumber will need to pump the water upstairs and outside.
3. Tankless conversion is tough. It needs a new larger sized gas pipe (replace 1/2" to 3/4") which can cost a bit depending on how difficult the run is. It also needs new duct/exhaust work. This can be fairly expensive as well. Expect to pay somewhere between $3,500-$4,500 for tankless vs. about $1,200 -$1,500 for a new 50 gallon.
If it were me, I'd stick with the tank. There is a water alarm system you can buy where you place it next to the water heater and plug it in. It detects any water leakage and signals an alarm.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
3. No.
1. Only when it breaks.
2. The water heater is placed in a drain pan, right? If there is a slow leak (typical failure mode), then you can see the water in the pan and an alarm device in the pan will alert you.
In the neighborhood, where are the heaters for the other homes?
1. Only when it breaks.
2. The water heater is placed in a drain pan, right? If there is a slow leak (typical failure mode), then you can see the water in the pan and an alarm device in the pan will alert you.
In the neighborhood, where are the heaters for the other homes?
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
No. My apartment complex has it on a drain pan but the house I am buying has it straight out on the concrete floor without any visible drain -- and that was my concern. I even asked the inspector, he said nope no drain.
Don't know.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Do you have other water heaters in the home?
I understand that a drain pan may not have a pipe to the outside, but I would have thought there was still a drain pan since they cost $10 to $50. You could probably put one in easily. Also a water sensor is cheap to just add to the pan.
I understand that a drain pan may not have a pipe to the outside, but I would have thought there was still a drain pan since they cost $10 to $50. You could probably put one in easily. Also a water sensor is cheap to just add to the pan.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Agree with the water sensor. We have a pan and a sensor. Saved us last time.
That water heater was 21 years old when it went out.
That water heater was 21 years old when it went out.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Under the circumstances, I would probably have it inspected when the house is inspected, then I'd keep it for about two years unless there is a problem with it. Then, because flooding would be such a catastrophe, I'd start looking around for a deal or a utility rebate to replace it proactively. When I researched tankless, the cost was prohibitive, but that would depend on where you live. Our summer gas bill (when we don't use heat), is under $20/month and about half of that is service fees and such, unrelated to usage. So even if the tankless could reduce my gas bill be 90%, it would take over ten years to break even, and they are not that much more efficient, so realistically, it would be about a 50% (or $5/month) savings. We recently bought a 50 gallon for our home, but we researched and got a Rheem with a 12 year warranty and a fast refresh rate, so it can provide 80-90 gallons of continuous hot water. It isn't unlimited like a tankless, but we have yet to run out of hot water since we got it.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I’d install a water sensing alarm. I wouldn’t worry about the pan.
I’d consult the existing neighbors about their water heater longevity to develop a replacement schedule.
I wouldn’t install a tankless for reasons others have stated.
I’d consult the existing neighbors about their water heater longevity to develop a replacement schedule.
I wouldn’t install a tankless for reasons others have stated.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
My friend's tankless water heater leaked after a freezing incident and created extensive damage. She replaced it with regular heater since there had been one in the exact same location until the previous owner replaced it with that tankless one that failed. Her husband agreed since that busted tankless never could provide unlimited hot water for his showers.
The OP may consider adding a 2nd water heater some place else in the home.
The OP may consider adding a 2nd water heater some place else in the home.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Check/replace the anode. It’s due.
Lack of drain is no big deal. Run a hose and buy a decent $100 transfer pump to drain sediment every year.
Lack of drain is no big deal. Run a hose and buy a decent $100 transfer pump to drain sediment every year.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I don't know when water heater was replaced before I bought our home. But it has been running for almost 20 years with no sign of leak. I have sensor ready. No worries.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
It's fine. Keep it until it blows out then figure out if a tankless is worth it. Ours is 20 years old and still going strong. Not sure why you're worried about a drain. Some people are all finicky and weird about draining the sediment out, but realistically 95% of people including myself don't bother. same with replacing the anode.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I thought drains were required by code everywhere. When my water heater (from the '80s) was replaced many years ago, it had to have a pan installed with a pipe running into a drain. Similarly the safety valve for the water heater had to be run into the drain. The inspector was very particular about that and had the water heater installer redo the plumbing because he didn't feel the new drain configuration was correct.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I would recommend checking/replacing the anode every 3 years or so. I went 8 years without checking mine and when I pulled it out, it was almost completely eaten away. I suspect that I did end up with some damage to the tank, so far it hasn't been an issue.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Similar situation here (both the size and the new homeowners, tank is about 2 years older in our case). We're considering replacing it with a bigger unit, but tankless is a no go for us for the reasons noted here.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
If you have a water softener, I believe that it can substantially lengthen the lifespan of your water heater due to it being much less likely to develop deposits.
Not unless code has changed very recently. None of the homes around us, some of which are brand new, have drains by the water heater.
Last edited by willthrill81 on Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The Sensible Steward
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Just want to say I’d never heard about replace anode rods before this site and have never heard of it elsewhere. I’ve known no one has ever done it. It’s a waste of effort imo.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
The only time I've ever heard of people doing it was in RV water heaters made by Suburban. But even then, it seems to take years before the anode rod goes bad.
The Sensible Steward
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
"When sodium is added to the water (like when a water softener is used), anode rods can corrode more quickly: in as little as six months if the water is over-softened! Take care not to over-soften water, and make sure to check your anode rod more often if you have a water softener (at least every six months)."willthrill81 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:38 pm If you have a water softener, I believe that it can substantially lengthen the lifespan of your water heater due to it being much less likely to develop deposits.
Source: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/understa ... -rods.html
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Thanks for sharing.OnTrack wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:08 pm"When sodium is added to the water (like when a water softener is used), anode rods can corrode more quickly: in as little as six months if the water is over-softened! Take care not to over-soften water, and make sure to check your anode rod more often if you have a water softener (at least every six months)."willthrill81 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:38 pm If you have a water softener, I believe that it can substantially lengthen the lifespan of your water heater due to it being much less likely to develop deposits.
Source: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/understa ... -rods.html
We just had our water heater fail after six years of use which seemed early to me. We also have a water softener. I suppose this is a potential explanation for the early failure.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I just replaced our 26-year 50-gallon old hot water not because it was failing. We are having family members house sit for us and we didn't want them to have to deal with it. The heater only cost about $900 (Bradford White) and another $300 to install in the same place, on a concrete slab in the garage (little change of water damage). Our gas company has a $50 coupon for an energy efficient model, but the extra infrastructure to support such a hot water heater cost way more the savings of the coupon.
This time we had a pan. I have used water sensors at other locations. If you are not at home, a sensor is not going to do you much good unless it shuts off the intake valve. Those types are more expensive, but if water damage is also expensive.
If you keep the old one, besides replacing the anodes, replace the washers on the fittings if you have flexible input and output pipe.
This time we had a pan. I have used water sensors at other locations. If you are not at home, a sensor is not going to do you much good unless it shuts off the intake valve. Those types are more expensive, but if water damage is also expensive.
If you keep the old one, besides replacing the anodes, replace the washers on the fittings if you have flexible input and output pipe.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I do drain the sediment out. The water was very dirty.squirm wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 8:48 pm It's fine. Keep it until it blows out then figure out if a tankless is worth it. Ours is 20 years old and still going strong. Not sure why you're worried about a drain. Some people are all finicky and weird about draining the sediment out, but realistically 95% of people including myself don't bother. same with replacing the anode.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I did replace one of the heating elements. I noticed the hot water was not enough for a normal shower so I diagnosed and replaced one heating elements. It was an easy job. I also have a 50 gallons water heater and it doesn't make sense for me to replace a water heater just because one heating element fails. So, I chose to spend $30 instead and 30 minutes of work (it takes time to drain water before replacing the element)willthrill81 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:53 pmThe only time I've ever heard of people doing it was in RV water heaters made by Suburban. But even then, it seems to take years before the anode rod goes bad.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
It would be very strange if it was more than 8 years old? A used water heater in a new house?Blue456 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 7:27 pm I got a few questions. I am soon to be new home owner, looks like we will inherit a 50 gallon water heater. I didn't look at the date of production yet but since the house was built in 2013 I presume it is now at least 8 years old. The mechanical room where the water heater is stored does not have a drain. This units is located in a fully furnished basement (which obviously I would not want to flood).
1. How often should I replace a water heater?
It's 8 years old - that's the most conservative position.
They should last 20 years (at least).
I share the surprise of many here that this was built to Code. You might check what the new building regulations (Code) is.2. Is the lack of drain a huge concern?
If it was installed to Code it is a risk, but can't be a huge risk.
Generally I would say no. Water heating is say 10-20% of total gas usage in a home (depending on heating season). "Waste" heat in heating & storing hot water goes into your house as another source of heat, so potentially for 6 months of the year it's not waste at all?3. Would investment into a tankless water heater be worth it?
If you heat your water electrically and you live in a an expensive electricity area (California, NY-New England) then replacing it with a heat pump water heater (2x-3x more efficient) might have a reasonable payback.
Tankless have their own limitations re flow. And they are more complex.
Unless you find 50 gallons is just not enough water (the household with 2 teenagers comes to mind) then I think you are good to go with the current system.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I just went through water heater failure. Ours is in a mostly uninsulated upstairs attic space adjacent to a downstairs porch (stupid location) but with a pan and emergency drain. The only reason I found out it was leaking was I was out in the yard on the side of my house I only go to to do yard cleanup. I noticed water coming out of a drain pipe that I don't normally see water coming out of and I felt the water. It was warm. So, I thought hot water heater and headed upstairs to see the water heater leaking from the bottom into the drain pan and down the emergency pipe. 16 years old and it was dead. I was told it lasted longer than it should. Thankfully the drain wasn't clogged and the only damage will be to my water bill and gas bill. I haven't gotten those bills yet and am thinking they are going to hurt because we deduced it'd been leaking over a week. I actually measured how much water was exiting the drain and it was around 1 gallon every 4 minutes. I did the math and it was depressing. So, the next day I had a new one installed and it cost around $1800. Good guy that did good work and he fixed a couple other little things around the house too. Symptoms that should've told us that something was wrong: 1) hot water in the house got hotter & 2) water pressure went up - found out the house pressure reduction valve had failed and that likely blew out the aging water heater. So that had to be replaced too. I was up-sold on the water heater, added a 2nd anode rod. Evidently mostly no one ever replaces anodes when recommended and mostly no one ever drains their water heaters as recommended to remove sediment. They don't make 'em like they used to so both maintenance practices should be followed. Take my experience into consideration when you decide what to do.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
As others have indicated, just get a sensor. If the unit fails, it will slow leak not dump gallons per minute.
Not sure where you are located, code in NYC/NJ does does not require drain or pan if in basement. Just need a pipe from temperature relief valve leading to bare floor.
Not sure where you are located, code in NYC/NJ does does not require drain or pan if in basement. Just need a pipe from temperature relief valve leading to bare floor.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Nice pun!confusedinaz wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:31 pmWe just had our water heater fail after six years of use which seemed early to me. We also have a water softener. I suppose this is a potential explanation for the early failure.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Your home insurance will possibly offer a discount for having one, especially if it shuts off the water.
I get the FI part but not the RE part of FIRE.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I agree that replacing an element instead of the entire heater makes great sense, but that's not what we were talking about.wander wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 11:07 pmI did replace one of the heating elements. I noticed the hot water was not enough for a normal shower so I diagnosed and replaced one heating elements. It was an easy job. I also have a 50 gallons water heater and it doesn't make sense for me to replace a water heater just because one heating element fails. So, I chose to spend $30 instead and 30 minutes of work (it takes time to drain water before replacing the element)willthrill81 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:53 pmThe only time I've ever heard of people doing it was in RV water heaters made by Suburban. But even then, it seems to take years before the anode rod goes bad.
The Sensible Steward
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I agree with most people and would replace it when it breaks. Mine was 20 years old and I replaced it even though it still worked. After 20 years, I didn't want to be caught in an emergency situation (either with leaking or not having hot water) where I'd have to rush to get it replaced.
If you don't have a drain that it is piped to a pan isn't go to do that much. It will contain a few gallons in the case of a small leak. I'd still add it if it was easy....but I don't see how it would be as the gas line typically has no/little give.
If you don't have a drain that it is piped to a pan isn't go to do that much. It will contain a few gallons in the case of a small leak. I'd still add it if it was easy....but I don't see how it would be as the gas line typically has no/little give.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I don't really know if my water heater even has this rod. You are right. It is a waste of time/efforts replacing that rod.willthrill81 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 9:56 amI agree that replacing an element instead of the entire heater makes great sense, but that's not what we were talking about.wander wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 11:07 pmI did replace one of the heating elements. I noticed the hot water was not enough for a normal shower so I diagnosed and replaced one heating elements. It was an easy job. I also have a 50 gallons water heater and it doesn't make sense for me to replace a water heater just because one heating element fails. So, I chose to spend $30 instead and 30 minutes of work (it takes time to drain water before replacing the element)willthrill81 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:53 pmThe only time I've ever heard of people doing it was in RV water heaters made by Suburban. But even then, it seems to take years before the anode rod goes bad.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
In my experience, longevity depends partly on how hard or soft your water is. Hard water seems to expedite corrosion in water heaters. I am in a hard water area and it is typical for water heaters to start leaking around 8-10 years. My last one developed a pinhole leak in the bottom of the tank at the 8 year mark so I replaced it immediately. When it was taken out, I could see that the bottom was almost entirely rusted out. Before that pinhole leak I had already been thinking about replacing it proactively rather than be stuck in a scramble to arrange for a replacement when it suddenly fails. I've also lived in a very soft water area where it was not uncommon for water heaters to last 15-20 years. I had one last 19 years there. That one developed a large leak in the bottom while I was away on vacation. I returned to find water gushing out of the bottom, fortunately there was a floor drain in the unfinished basement that it flowed into so there was no damage.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
There is/was a way to legally do it. I did it for my parents basement water heater decades ago. The normal safety valve is called a T & P which stands for temperature and pressure. I installed a specific pressure relief valve somewhere in the plumbing system that was high enough to legally drain. It couldn't have a valve between it and the tank. I then installed a temperature controlled gas shut off valve on the water heater. It installed in the T & P location on the tank. In short it was a probe that stuck in the tank. On the outside it looked like a probe screwed into the bullhead side of a tee. The gas line to the water heater ran through the other 2 ports of the tee. Therefore a high pressure failure would be recognized by the pressure safety valve and wouldn't release into the sump. A high temperature failure would shut off the gas. I'd never saw that before or after.tibbitts wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 8:55 pm I thought drains were required by code everywhere. When my water heater (from the '80s) was replaced many years ago, it had to have a pan installed with a pipe running into a drain. Similarly the safety valve for the water heater had to be run into the drain. The inspector was very particular about that and had the water heater installer redo the plumbing because he didn't feel the new drain configuration was correct.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
You could have the tank placed in a very large, water-tight enclosure which are parts of code, though you would want a larger one, perhaps. Personal opinion, but I cannot imagine why anyone would convert to tankless unless ecologically concerned.
Tim
Tim
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I had a tankless water heater installed in my previous home, after the old one was destroyed in a flood. I was miffed that my state didn't offer any efficiency credits for tankless water heaters versus high-efficiency tank-style heaters, but I wanted one anyway. Since the hot water is on-demand, there is a slight lag in receiving hot water, and the water heater must be sized correctly for the demands of the house. But once it started, it was pretty much endless. And they free up some valuable space in the basement, too!
Our new place came with a conventional 50-gallon unit, Energy Star rated. Even with the tank, there is something of a lag in getting hot water up to the shower on the second floor anyway, so the only thing keeping me from pondering a tankless for "next time" is really the cost...
Our new place came with a conventional 50-gallon unit, Energy Star rated. Even with the tank, there is something of a lag in getting hot water up to the shower on the second floor anyway, so the only thing keeping me from pondering a tankless for "next time" is really the cost...
"Old value investors never die, they just get their fix from rebalancing." -- vineviz
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
When we bought our house in 2019 there was an existing 50 gal water heater in the basement utility room. The rest of the basement is finished with a bedroom, living room, and full bathroom. The previous owner had a circular 2' deep x 2' diameter excavated hole placed in the floor through the slab next to the water heater, and lined the walls and floor of the hole with cement. The drain from the water heater runs into the hole which contains an automatic sump pump that will pump to the exterior of the house if any water enters the hole.
Our general location is subject to radon gas, so the hole was sealed with plexiglass which allowed the installation of a radon detector in the same hole with a separate alarm on the wall of the utility room. I thought that sealing the hole was defeating the purpose of the emergency drain, thinking that no water could enter the hole if a pipe burst, and told the seller's agent that I wanted the radon detector and the sump hole separated. When my inspector looked at it he said that the existing setup is common and that it works well.
If radon isn't a potential problem there would be no need to seal the sump hole for the placement of a radon detector. Alternately, a separate sealed hole could be installed for the purpose of radon detection, at additional cost of course.
I have no idea what all that cost, but I feel confident that flooding won't be a problem, and that once the existing water heater fails the new one will drain the same way. In our case the utility room is off the downstairs garage, also on a slab. The garage is 2" lower than the connected basement living space so any leak (also alarmed at the floor) not captured by the sump hole would drain to the outside (backyard) through the garage door.
Our general location is subject to radon gas, so the hole was sealed with plexiglass which allowed the installation of a radon detector in the same hole with a separate alarm on the wall of the utility room. I thought that sealing the hole was defeating the purpose of the emergency drain, thinking that no water could enter the hole if a pipe burst, and told the seller's agent that I wanted the radon detector and the sump hole separated. When my inspector looked at it he said that the existing setup is common and that it works well.
If radon isn't a potential problem there would be no need to seal the sump hole for the placement of a radon detector. Alternately, a separate sealed hole could be installed for the purpose of radon detection, at additional cost of course.
I have no idea what all that cost, but I feel confident that flooding won't be a problem, and that once the existing water heater fails the new one will drain the same way. In our case the utility room is off the downstairs garage, also on a slab. The garage is 2" lower than the connected basement living space so any leak (also alarmed at the floor) not captured by the sump hole would drain to the outside (backyard) through the garage door.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Regarding alarm/sensors: We got a few of these from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc- ... 173&sr=8-7
after our neighbor had $10K in repairs due to pin hole leaks in old copper pipes. Cheap insurance and work well, as long as you are home. We placed them in low spots in the basement, next to the water heater, sump pump and clothes washer. I can attest, they are LOUD! One has gone off a few times when we neglected to clean the lint filter in the utility sink our clothes washer drains to, and the sink overflowed.
https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc- ... 173&sr=8-7
after our neighbor had $10K in repairs due to pin hole leaks in old copper pipes. Cheap insurance and work well, as long as you are home. We placed them in low spots in the basement, next to the water heater, sump pump and clothes washer. I can attest, they are LOUD! One has gone off a few times when we neglected to clean the lint filter in the utility sink our clothes washer drains to, and the sink overflowed.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
My 11 year old gas water heater has a leaking pressure release valve. I wonder if I should replace the water heater or just replace the valve? One plumber said that it means that the water heater is going. Friend who does plumbing said to just replace the valve.
Amanda
Amanda
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
My guess is that would depend on whether the value failed due to age or if it failed due to the water heater being overpressureized and the value couldn’t handle the high pressure anymore.AmandaH wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 12:17 pm My 11 year old gas water heater has a leaking pressure release valve. I wonder if I should replace the water heater or just replace the valve? One plumber said that it means that the water heater is going. Friend who does plumbing said to just replace the valve.
Amanda
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Agree with the others - replace the anode rod. It’s $20 and takes 30 minutes, and can double the life of your water heater. A true “no brained”
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I think it indicates plumber has a boat payment coming up.AmandaH wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 12:17 pm My 11 year old gas water heater has a leaking pressure release valve. I wonder if I should replace the water heater or just replace the valve? One plumber said that it means that the water heater is going. Friend who does plumbing said to just replace the valve.
Amanda
Semper Augustus
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
It's a shame that when the time comes for replacement, a consumer is no longer allowed to think for themselves and select an 80-gallon residential electric water heater since they've been outlawed. I'm immensely enjoying my ten-year-old 80-gallon Kenmore Power Miser water heater with dual anodes and thicker insulation and better energy consumption than anything that the major home improvement stores were selling at the time.
Even right now, the best 50-gallon water heater that I've been able to find is a GE model currently sold by Sears that has a higher first-hour water output rating than any other 50-gallon model I've found during a cursory search. Second-best was a model at Lowe's with a slightly lower first-hour output.
Still, being that we're barred from 80-gallon residential sizes now, and other than resorting to an overpriced light-commercial model, larger households or people who like long showers are forced into an unfortunate slim selection of choices.
Even right now, the best 50-gallon water heater that I've been able to find is a GE model currently sold by Sears that has a higher first-hour water output rating than any other 50-gallon model I've found during a cursory search. Second-best was a model at Lowe's with a slightly lower first-hour output.
Still, being that we're barred from 80-gallon residential sizes now, and other than resorting to an overpriced light-commercial model, larger households or people who like long showers are forced into an unfortunate slim selection of choices.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
My wife wants 5 kids, we are on 2 now and find that we are running out of hot water when dish washer and laundry is on in our apartment. So that is another problem...Jb526 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 4:02 pm It's a shame that when the time comes for replacement, a consumer is no longer allowed to think for themselves and select an 80-gallon residential electric water heater since they've been outlawed. I'm immensely enjoying my ten-year-old 80-gallon Kenmore Power Miser water heater with dual anodes and thicker insulation and better energy consumption than anything that the major home improvement stores were selling at the time.
Even right now, the best 50-gallon water heater that I've been able to find is a GE model currently sold by Sears that has a higher first-hour water output rating than any other 50-gallon model I've found during a cursory search. Second-best was a model at Lowe's with a slightly lower first-hour output.
Still, being that we're barred from 80-gallon residential sizes now, and other than resorting to an overpriced light-commercial model, larger households or people who like long showers are forced into an unfortunate slim selection of choices.
Last edited by Blue456 on Thu Mar 18, 2021 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
Our house of 7 years has two 50 gal gas water heaters hooked up in parallel. Apparently the previous owners did not appreciate disruptions in their morning routine (and I have to admit I appreciate the redundancy as well).Blue456 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 6:02 pmMy wife wants 5 kids, we are on 2 now and find that we are running out of hot water when dish washer and laundry is no in our apartment. So that is another problem...Jb526 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 4:02 pm It's a shame that when the time comes for replacement, a consumer is no longer allowed to think for themselves and select an 80-gallon residential electric water heater since they've been outlawed. I'm immensely enjoying my ten-year-old 80-gallon Kenmore Power Miser water heater with dual anodes and thicker insulation and better energy consumption than anything that the major home improvement stores were selling at the time.
Even right now, the best 50-gallon water heater that I've been able to find is a GE model currently sold by Sears that has a higher first-hour water output rating than any other 50-gallon model I've found during a cursory search. Second-best was a model at Lowe's with a slightly lower first-hour output.
Still, being that we're barred from 80-gallon residential sizes now, and other than resorting to an overpriced light-commercial model, larger households or people who like long showers are forced into an unfortunate slim selection of choices.
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
My water heater is only delivering luke warm water most of the time right now. I have tried flushing it out - but it looks like I need to replace mine this year. Most likely a water heater will just slowly quit functioning (like mine) rather than leak. So you can probably just replace it when it stops working - rather than worrying about a leak. When you do replace it - be sure to get a drain pan for the next one to sit in (they are really cheap - and no reason not to have one).
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
If you live somewhere generally warm, consider a heat pump water heater. They are about 3x more efficient than standard resistance electric water heaters, and they also reduce cooling loads since they are pumping heat from the house into the water to heat water.
You can also get them in an 80 gallon size! (and at least ours has regular elements as a backup, and can be switched to "conventional" mode during unusually cold weather)
You can also get them in an 80 gallon size! (and at least ours has regular elements as a backup, and can be switched to "conventional" mode during unusually cold weather)
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I had a relative that had a pre-heating tank. Of course, this only helps if you live in a colder climate and have the space. The pre-heating tank merely let the water come to room temperature (or a portion thereof) before going into the hot water tank.
If you are running out of hot water can't you just turn up the tank permanently? If you have 50 gallons at X degrees when mixed it will go farther than 50 gallons at X-10 degrees.
If you are running out of hot water can't you just turn up the tank permanently? If you have 50 gallons at X degrees when mixed it will go farther than 50 gallons at X-10 degrees.
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Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
If you are really going for 5 kids, and you could be in the situation of 2 showers running + someone in the kitchen, then a tankless is unlikely to do it for you.Blue456 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 7:27 pm I got a few questions. I am soon to be new home owner, looks like we will inherit a 50 gallon water heater. I didn't look at the date of production yet but since the house was built in 2013 I presume it is now at least 8 years old. The mechanical room where the water heater is stored does not have a drain. This units is located in a fully furnished basement (which obviously I would not want to flood).
1. How often should I replace a water heater?
2. Is the lack of drain a huge concern?
3. Would investment into a tankless water heater be worth it?
There's a case for 2 x50 gal tanks but all kinds of problems with that re space, cost.
If you do have that many (or even 3-4) definitely look at a Heat Pump water heater when you replace this one, Because your hot water consumption when the kids are 10-18, say, will be scary. Expect the local water board to be around to ask if you have an unrepaired leak, too, (humour, but only just) .
Re: 50 gallon water heater questions
I'm not sure why there is negativity to tankless in this thread. I remodeled my house about 10 years ago and went with a gas-fired Navien tankless sized properly to my demands and home (3 people). There is a lag in getting the hot water going (I believe this has improved somewhat in the last decade), but the hot water is....endless. We can run the dishwasher, take a shower, the laundry, wash-hands, etc all at the same time if you want and it's 120 degrees...forever.Scott S wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 11:04 am I had a tankless water heater installed in my previous home, after the old one was destroyed in a flood. I was miffed that my state didn't offer any efficiency credits for tankless water heaters versus high-efficiency tank-style heaters, but I wanted one anyway. Since the hot water is on-demand, there is a slight lag in receiving hot water, and the water heater must be sized correctly for the demands of the house. But once it started, it was pretty much endless. And they free up some valuable space in the basement, too!
Our new place came with a conventional 50-gallon unit, Energy Star rated. Even with the tank, there is something of a lag in getting hot water up to the shower on the second floor anyway, so the only thing keeping me from pondering a tankless for "next time" is really the cost...