Help Fix My Lawn!

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davebo
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Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by davebo »

So I've lived in my house for 9 years. I didn't use much on my lawn because I was happy with it and my kids were young and decided to go natural. Now I feel like it's catching up with me and I want to fix it. Most articles will say that you should start with a soil test. I've considered doing that, but wondering if that is overkill? Has it provided any insight to any of you if you did go that route? I tried one of those instant tests, but the only color I could clearly make out was 6.5 on the PH. It looked like I was low on Nitrogen and Phos, but I don't have a high confidence level there.

Wondering if I should skip the test and just put down some fertilizer soon. If so, any recommendations? I have always used Milorganite, but I read an article recently that said that Milorganite is ok for the summer but not best for Spring. I saw people raving about Lesco starter fertilizer (even on established lawns), but they don't sell it near me. Then I read something that Phosphorus is banned in fertilizer in IL, not sure how that can be true when starter fert has it.

I already put down a preemergent, just looking for recommendations. I put down some sod last year and it looked GREAT and grew like crazy. When I compared it to my established lawn, the difference was stark. After I cut my lawn, the entire lawn looked ok. Before I cut it, it seemed patchy and uneven with a bunch of clover.

Thanks!
Teague
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Teague »

I would do the real soil test.

I had a garden area that was producing worse as time went on, despite annual application of fertilizer and compost. I finally spent about a hundred bucks for a good soil test.

Results: N, P, and K were all way too high. I was poisoning the soil by continuing to add fertilizer.

That's not likely to be your problem, but if you don't know what's wrong you can't know how to fix it.
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livesoft
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by livesoft »

Never had a soil test ever. Here is a pic of my lawn taken a moment ago:
Image
Note that I don't live near you and have a different species of grass.

So far this year, no fertilizer, no herbicide, no pesticide, no pre-emergent, and I haven't even turned on the lawn irrigation system since we have had enough rain. My son mowed the lawn a couple days ago.

Re: Lesco: I use Lesco fertilizer last September and will use it later this spring. It is the least expensive here in Texas. It is good, but there are many varieties. I have found that for my yard, I don't want it to green up fast and I don't want lots of nitrogen or my lawn will suffer from fungus. So I use the 15-10-10 variety with a high fraction of "slow-release" coated particles. Slow release works by letting water (rain, sprinkler, hose) dissolve the coating on the coated particles, so a different number of coated particles might be dissolved exposing the insides every time it rains. This is not unlike time-release pills with granules that are coated with different thicknesses of a compound that dissolves in your gut. Maybe the red, yellow, and white colors indicate different thicknesses? I don't know.

How does that help you? Easy: Check with your neighbors who have lawns that you admire. Ask them what they have done. That doesn't mean they all did the same thing. Then come back and post photos of their lawns, your lawn, and what you learned.

Since you put down sod, your sod company told you that they already fertilized the sod for you before it was purchased. The main thing with sod is make sure it gets watered well since the roots are cut and really don't go deep (Duh!) until they have a chance to grown down below into your ground. Thus sod needs more water to get established than you think. May I ask you: How do YOU tell when your grass needs watering?
Last edited by livesoft on Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Hogan773
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Hogan773 »

I switched to Milorganite a few years ago and like it a lot. I still use a regular high nitrogen fertilizer in November just to give the roots a good eat which they store over the winter and it helps with green up. Many say to never use a high nitrogen fertilizer in spring because you just turbocharge the growth (and it is already growing fast anyway) so I like the Milorganite as a normal food rather than high nitrogen. I spend some money to get straight Dimension pre-emergent (got a 35lb bag of Andersons at a local turf store for pros and it will last me 4 or 5 years). Most pre-emergent that you can easily find at big box stores such as Scotts comes with that pesky synthetic fertilizer in it, which is what you don't really want to be applying in April.
regularguy455
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by regularguy455 »

If you haven’t looked, you might consider a lawn maintenance company. For about $200-$300 per year, they apply all the fertilizer, herbicide and pre-emergent at the right time. The folks in our neighborhood are pros. They took my weed patch into a healthy lawn in about 1.5 years. You also reduce the risk of handling pesticides if you value that sort of thing (e.g. RoundUP lawsuit).
steadtler
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by steadtler »

Skip the soil test for now. Start with the basics and fine tune it after a few seasons.

Basics for you are going to be water, mow, pre-emergent, fertilize.
Nothing wrong with milorganite in the spring but it wont give you the fast results of lesco. I have heard of some putting down both for the first fertilizer application of the season, but I wouldn't recommend that.

I would not worry much about trying to kill the clover and other weeds that are there now. They have basically been able to grow without competition until recently. For the first season or too, you will probably going to need to do some post-emergent weed control until the turf is strong and healthy and able to choke out most weed problems.
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Kenkat
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Kenkat »

Since you are in Illinois, you have cool season grasses which will usually be a combination of fescue, bluegrass and perennial rye. I am in Ohio with similar grass types and here is my routine:

I use Fertilome fertilizer which is sold in garden stores, not the big box stores. Seems a high quality product.

Around April 1, I put down a pre-emergent / crabgrass preventer plus fertilizer.

Around Memorial Day, I put down a general purpose lawn fertilizer. The Fertilome brand is called Lawn Food Plus Iron. My lawn seems to like the iron. If you have a lot of weeds, you can substitute a weed and feed. Apply weed and feed when the grass is damp with dew as the product needs to stick to the weeds to be effective.

Around Labor Day, repeat the Memorial Day routine.

Around November 1, put down a Winterizer type fertilizer or you can also use the general lawn food as well.

Once I cleared out the weeds, I no longer use weed and feed. I just mix up a spray bottle of Weed B Gon from concentrate and spot treat weeds that appear.

I avoid insecticide treatments on the entire lawn. They kill everything; spot treat if at all possible.

Water deeply and infrequently during the summer if there is no rain for about a week.

If you have a lot of bare patches, overseed in the fall. If you want to do a large area, go to a tool rental and get a slit seeder which will cut thin grooves into the soil to protect the seed. A lot of work but very effective.

Those are mostly the high points. Costs about a third of having a lawn service do it and if you are diligent, you can get better results.
Grt2bOutdoors
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Grt2bOutdoors »

I put down Scott’s with Halts crab grass preventer which comes with fertilizer in it. I skip the weed n feed and use Milorganite at Memorial Day, July 4th, End of August. I spot treat weeds with a sprayer though if you have a lot of weeds I can see using a weed n feed product. Come beginning of October towards Columbus Day I put down Scott’s winterguard, I follow up with one more application the week of Thanksgiving (prepares your grass for harsh winter conditions and faster green up come spring). This is the first year where my grass is mostly green and after this rain, I’m thinking it will be all green by end of week. I have mainly a Kentucky blue grass lawn.
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TheOscarGuy
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by TheOscarGuy »

livesoft wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:30 pm Never had a soil test ever. Here is a pic of my lawn taken a moment ago:
Image
Note that I don't live near you and have a different species of grass.
Is this Florida? In my untrained eye it looks like Bermuda, but I am not an expert. Beautiful lawn!
I have used Milorganite, and whole bunch of other ferts and spent a lot of time outside to "fix". I realized soon that my time is precious and I need to be at a level where it is "good enough". I gave the work out to a company and have not looked back. I am happy with "good enough". :D
Murgatroyd
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Murgatroyd »

All you need to do is follow this monthly checklist link for expert advice from the Chicago Botanical Garden.

https://www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/checklist
livesoft
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by livesoft »

TheOscarGuy wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:09 pmIs this Florida? In my untrained eye it looks like Bermuda, ...
St Augustine. It's Texas.
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papito23
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by papito23 »

Ignore my advice & preaching if you want a PGA golf course or an English manor.

I'm also in the Midwest (northern IN) probably near your latitude. Your subdivision maybe have had all the nice topsoil scraped off and you were left with subsoil after all the grading. If so, sorry, that sucks.

The entirety of my lawn management consists involves the following: mow high, when it needs it (even better: with an electric mower sans all the carbon monoxide and noise). That's it.

No supplemental watering, fertilizer, or herbicides here. This is my first home I've owned and I'm 5 years into the experiment, but my lawn looks quite normal. I noticed that plenty of lawns survived the once-in-a-generation drought of the summer 2012 without any supplemental watering. Typical Eurasian lawn grasses are "cool-season" species, they just go dormant in the heat of summer then green right back up with water and lower temps.

Americans used to sow clover into their lawns. (Note: This is unprofitable to the chemical industry). I don't see the point in trying to kill all the broadleaves. They fill in interstitial space and the grasses (mostly Kentucky blue grass) still predominate anyway, at least in my lawn. Broadleaf plants like dandelions, violets, and clovers add species diversity and a pollinator resource (FYI research is indicating that we are in the middle of a broad insect collapse - not good). Mowing high allows them to survive, and my grasses to get longer roots. I suspect this lawn-of-neglect can withstand drought better than the golf course type.

All this and I still retain 100% of the lawn-like features we all want: open spaces for my kids to play. Functional ecosystem > 19th century aristocratic customs. To be honest, I'm kind of having it both ways, my lawn looks pretty normal from the street.

This spring I'm even getting Spring Beauty to bloom (a minute native spring wildflower that can survive in lawns if one delays the first mowing a bit). It supports the Spring Beauty Mining Bee, which gathers pollen only from this plant species.

I haven't had major crabgrass issues, so maybe I'd change my tune if I did! :twisted:

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Mr. Rumples
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Mr. Rumples »

While it may have changed, the lush lawns of Vancouver, BC have a mix which intentionally is about 10% clover. That matches what my neighbor was told by his lawn company: they are moving away from monoculture and reintroducing clover into the mix. Clover adds nitrogen, is drought resistant, easily fills in voids; and the bees love the flowers. (I don't care what it is as long as its green and not getting into my perennial and shrub beds.)
Mr. Rumples
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Mr. Rumples »

Teague wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:28 pm I would do the real soil test.

I had a garden area that was producing worse as time went on, despite annual application of fertilizer and compost. I finally spent about a hundred bucks for a good soil test.

Results: N, P, and K were all way too high. I was poisoning the soil by continuing to add fertilizer.

That's not likely to be your problem, but if you don't know what's wrong you can't know how to fix it.
Have to agree. Here, many yards have soil which are deficient in calcium which then hinders the ability of the soil to use other fertilizers. Once a year usually in the fall, most counties in VA offer free soil tests through their extension offices. The only cost is the $8 to mail it. Not so difficult and is only recommended once every three years.
FeesR-BullNotBullish
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by FeesR-BullNotBullish »

I recommend a minimal approach this year to see if you like the results. For me that means regularly applying fertilizer and spot treating especially bad areas with seed. If you're displeased, then you have plenty of time to plan for 2021.

Fertilizer recommendation: I've had success with the Scotts 4 Step Program. You get four bags of fertilizer for one high price. Each bag represents a "step". I apply Step 1 in late winter and each successive step in eight week intervals until I apply Step 4 in late September. I'm ok with the price because it works and I don't need to research different fertilizer blends for different times of the year.

That said, Step 1 is a preemergent which you already applied, so you might start with Step 2 or consider a different approach this year. I wish you lush green grass this year. Our lawn makes our summers that much more enjoyable!
TheOscarGuy
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by TheOscarGuy »

livesoft wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:18 pm
TheOscarGuy wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:09 pmIs this Florida? In my untrained eye it looks like Bermuda, ...
St Augustine. It's Texas.
Tells you I know nothing about grass species :D
dilligaf401
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by dilligaf401 »

I'd recommending checking out Allyn Hayne (aka the Lawn Care Nut) on youtube to start off with. He's how I got into DIY lawn care.
He also puts out a lawn care guide for $20 or $30 that gets you started which Id recommend if you're relatively new. Gives you everything you need to get started and then some.
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dunkmachine
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by dunkmachine »

Join us over here: https://thelawnforum.com/

Post a question or read through others on the Cool Season Lawns forum.
ponyboy
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by ponyboy »

1/3 of our yard is shady and the "grass" is most moss. The soil under it sucks. In the fall, im going to take 2-3 inches off the top, and lay down new top soil, then seed. I guess in PA, fall is the best time to plant new grass.
DurangoWino
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by DurangoWino »

I spoke wit a county extension (Southeast Texas) agent that has St. Augustine in his yard and said it would win all the rewards. His suggestion was to not use a weed and feed in the Spring, but fertilize in the Spring and mulch with your mower all the time. Mulching during the summer adds nitrogen back to the soil. Then in the Fall use a pre-emergent fertilizer to kill the weeds before they form in the Spring.

If your soil is very poor to begin with you can get good soil delivered and spread it over your lawn. Expensive but it can really help your lawn. Also de-thatching in the Spring after your lawn greens up is a great way to get the dead thatch out to allow air, nutrients, and water to get into your lawn.

You will probably need to spend some time and money to get ahead of your issues, but you will be rewarded with a great lawn.
Hogan773
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Hogan773 »

DurangoWino wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:34 pm I spoke wit a county extension (Southeast Texas) agent that has St. Augustine in his yard and said it would win all the rewards. His suggestion was to not use a weed and feed in the Spring, but fertilize in the Spring and mulch with your mower all the time. Mulching during the summer adds nitrogen back to the soil. Then in the Fall use a pre-emergent fertilizer to kill the weeds before they form in the Spring.

If your soil is very poor to begin with you can get good soil delivered and spread it over your lawn. Expensive but it can really help your lawn. Also de-thatching in the Spring after your lawn greens up is a great way to get the dead thatch out to allow air, nutrients, and water to get into your lawn.

You will probably need to spend some time and money to get ahead of your issues, but you will be rewarded with a great lawn.
Yes, mulch. People who bag spend extra time unbagging that good fertilizer and throwing into a landfill

Also core aeration can help lawns. Now that I am on my Milorganite there are a gazillion worms down in the soil so I don't need much aeration. But when I was starting to revive it I got it aerated a few times. Make sure to aerate BEFORE you put down pre-emergent weed killer. If you poke holes after the weed killer is down, it ruins the effectiveness
Jack FFR1846
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Jack FFR1846 »

Once the July/August drought and sun come and my neighbors using lawn services have nice brown lawns, mine is green as can be. How do I do it? I let it grow maybe 6 inches or more before cutting, then cut on the highest setting on my mower. No fertilizer, or water or any work other than driving across it with the tractor now and then on the south side and driving my cars onto the north side lawn to wash them. The grass will actually grow over and kill a lot of weeds on their own. And of course, when it's dry and sunny, the longer grass shades the lower portions. I do bag what's cut and use it on my trails to help reduce mud when wet.

Am I saying to be lazy and cheap? Well....yah. If you want your lawn to look way better than Mr and Mrs Moneybags down the street. :D
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Hogan773
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Hogan773 »

Jack FFR1846 wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:56 am Once the July/August drought and sun come and my neighbors using lawn services have nice brown lawns, mine is green as can be. How do I do it? I let it grow maybe 6 inches or more before cutting, then cut on the highest setting on my mower. No fertilizer, or water or any work other than driving across it with the tractor now and then on the south side and driving my cars onto the north side lawn to wash them. The grass will actually grow over and kill a lot of weeds on their own. And of course, when it's dry and sunny, the longer grass shades the lower portions. I do bag what's cut and use it on my trails to help reduce mud when wet.

Am I saying to be lazy and cheap? Well....yah. If you want your lawn to look way better than Mr and Mrs Moneybags down the street. :D
+1 on this too

Most people (and lawn services) cut the grass way too short

On my property I cut to around 3.5 inches. Lots of people cut to 2.5 or even 2.0. Makes it much easier for the weeds to get sun, and for the ground to dry out. I was always annoyed because there are some small grass patches between my neighbor's driveway and mine...it is actually my property, but my neighbor's lawn service will always just buzz over them with their giant death machine and scalp the area. So those patches end up looking horrible (like my neighbor's lawn) while the rest of my lawn looks green and thick and healthy. I've tried to catch them in the act and tell them in my broken Spanish that those are MY lawn and not their client's so they should not cut it, but it keeps happening. Oh well
jfave33
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by jfave33 »

papito23 wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:19 pm

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Looks nice. That is the kind of "lawn" I like.
dsmil
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by dsmil »

My lawn in Maryland is terrible so I just ordered the Cool Season Guide from https://thelawncarenut.com/ and have been watching his youtube videos. He loves the Milorganite so I'm going to throw that on in early April, mid-May, late September, and at the end of October and will use 3,000 sq ft per bag, rather than 2,500. Also some pre-emergent with all of these except the one at the end of October.

I have a lot of shade which doesn't help. I also cut very short in preparation for seeding in the fall, but seeded too late and was just left with very short grass so I've had a ton of weeds early this year.
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investor.saver1
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by investor.saver1 »

The reality is you can spend a little or a lot on lawn. If you feed your lawn, kill the weeds in it, and you water it sufficiently, you'll soon have a nice lawn. If you neglect any one of the three, you lawn isn't going to do as well. I live in Iowa which is equivalent to Illinois in respect to growing conditions. You don't need a soil test. If your neighbors have nice lawns then your lawn will be nice too with proper care. I'd suggest you go the a big box store and buy some mid-priced lawn fertilizer … it will be fine. Put on four applications during the year. Water the lawn when nature doesn't. Cut the lawn on your highest setting. If weeds are bad, then have a lawn service come out and ask them to kill the weeds for you. That's it. Enjoy. In a couple years your neighbors will be asking you for lawn advice.
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livesoft
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by livesoft »

investor.saver1 wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:24 pm The reality is you can spend a little or a lot on lawn. If you feed your lawn, kill the weeds in it, and you water it sufficiently, you'll soon have a nice lawn. If you neglect any one of the three, you lawn isn't going to do as well. I live in Iowa which is equivalent to Illinois in respect to growing conditions. You don't need a soil test. If your neighbors have nice lawns then your lawn will be nice too with proper care. I'd suggest you go the a big box store and buy some mid-priced lawn fertilizer … it will be fine. Put on four applications during the year. Water the lawn when nature doesn't. Cut the lawn on your highest setting. If weeds are bad, then have a lawn service come out and ask them to kill the weeds for you. That's it. Enjoy. In a couple years your neighbors will be asking you for lawn advice.
This advice is good advice, but I would modify it slightly. If one gets a mid-priced lawn fertilizer that has N-K-P with N greater than 15, then using it 4 times a year might actually kill the grass. Or if one gets a weed-and-feed fertilizer and uses it in hot weather, then it will kill the grass. Or if one over-applies the fertilizer because they feel more is better, then they will kill the grass. I think the success of milorganite is mostly that it is a low-strength fertilizer and not that it has some special natural properties.
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Hogan773
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Hogan773 »

livesoft wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:52 pm
investor.saver1 wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:24 pm The reality is you can spend a little or a lot on lawn. If you feed your lawn, kill the weeds in it, and you water it sufficiently, you'll soon have a nice lawn. If you neglect any one of the three, you lawn isn't going to do as well. I live in Iowa which is equivalent to Illinois in respect to growing conditions. You don't need a soil test. If your neighbors have nice lawns then your lawn will be nice too with proper care. I'd suggest you go the a big box store and buy some mid-priced lawn fertilizer … it will be fine. Put on four applications during the year. Water the lawn when nature doesn't. Cut the lawn on your highest setting. If weeds are bad, then have a lawn service come out and ask them to kill the weeds for you. That's it. Enjoy. In a couple years your neighbors will be asking you for lawn advice.
This advice is good advice, but I would modify it slightly. If one gets a mid-priced lawn fertilizer that has N-K-P with N greater than 15, then using it 4 times a year might actually kill the grass. Or if one gets a weed-and-feed fertilizer and uses it in hot weather, then it will kill the grass. Or if one over-applies the fertilizer because they feel more is better, then they will kill the grass. I think the success of milorganite is mostly that it is a low-strength fertilizer and not that it has some special natural properties.
Milorganite is organic so you are really feeding the soil and the microbes and the worms and those microbes break it down and make the nitrogen available. You can really put a lot on and the plants will just take up what they need from the soil, but you aren't force-feeding nitrogen like you would with urea/common fertilizer. Those common fertilizers can build up salts too in the soil
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by livesoft »

Hogan773 wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:58 pmMilorganite is organic so you are really feeding the soil and the microbes and the worms and those microbes break it down and make the nitrogen available. You can really put a lot on and the plants will just take up what they need from the soil, but you aren't force-feeding nitrogen like you would with urea/common fertilizer. Those common fertilizers can build up salts too in the soil
Got a link for some of those statements such as "build up salts"? Ammonium nitrate will not build up salts in the soil. The chemistry of nitrogen is really well known, so I need to see some scientific literature cited. I am not interested in marketing hype. Atoms of nitrogen are the same no matter where they originate from. Urea is "organic" since it is the same molecule whether made by animals or by a chemistry process. One would not be able to distinguish the source of urea. I have never used milorganite, but I know quite a lot about it, but I have plenty of worms, microbes, and organic matter in my yard.
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Kenkat
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Kenkat »

livesoft wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:52 pm
investor.saver1 wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:24 pm The reality is you can spend a little or a lot on lawn. If you feed your lawn, kill the weeds in it, and you water it sufficiently, you'll soon have a nice lawn. If you neglect any one of the three, you lawn isn't going to do as well. I live in Iowa which is equivalent to Illinois in respect to growing conditions. You don't need a soil test. If your neighbors have nice lawns then your lawn will be nice too with proper care. I'd suggest you go the a big box store and buy some mid-priced lawn fertilizer … it will be fine. Put on four applications during the year. Water the lawn when nature doesn't. Cut the lawn on your highest setting. If weeds are bad, then have a lawn service come out and ask them to kill the weeds for you. That's it. Enjoy. In a couple years your neighbors will be asking you for lawn advice.
This advice is good advice, but I would modify it slightly. If one gets a mid-priced lawn fertilizer that has N-K-P with N greater than 15, then using it 4 times a year might actually kill the grass. Or if one gets a weed-and-feed fertilizer and uses it in hot weather, then it will kill the grass. Or if one over-applies the fertilizer because they feel more is better, then they will kill the grass. I think the success of milorganite is mostly that it is a low-strength fertilizer and not that it has some special natural properties.
Nothing negative to say about milorganite at all but the key is to apply any product as directed. For example, the instructions for 6-4-0 milorganite is to apply 64lbs. for 5,000 sq. ft. For Fertilome Lawn Food Plus Iron 28-4-4, it is 20lbs. for 5,000 sq. ft. The total nitrogen put on the lawn is similar for both products.
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by livesoft »

Kenkat wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 2:08 pmNothing negative to say about milorganite at all but the key is to apply any product as directed.
A resounding agreement to that.

However, there is no way I would use a fertilizer on my yard with N = 28 (or N greater than 15).
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Kenkat
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Re: Help Fix My Lawn!

Post by Kenkat »

livesoft wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 2:10 pm
Kenkat wrote: Tue Apr 14, 2020 2:08 pmNothing negative to say about milorganite at all but the key is to apply any product as directed.
A resounding agreement to that.

However, there is no way I would use a fertilizer on my yard with N = 28 (or N greater than 15).
I do 4x per year with higher nitrogen fertilizer than 15 but my soil type and grass type in Ohio is completely different so it’s not a straight comparison. I do avoid any fertilizer from Jun 1 - Aug 31.

The goal is to deliver x pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. of soil as appropriate for your area.
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