Bogleheads.org

Sandtrap wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2024 3:52 pm

protagonist wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2024 3:47 pm Is there a better, and more readable, book to give a 34 y o novice investor as a primer on investing than The Investor's Manifesto by Bill Bernstein?

If so, what book and why?

A good "first" step.
"A Simple Path To Wealth" by J. L. Collins
Amazon (softcover).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/15336 ... UTF8&psc=1

Readable, clarity at a novice/beginner level.
Understandable, a good "first" book with a comprehensive look at;
What is wealth
What is financial independence
How to get there
etc.

j

+1 for The Simple Path to Wealth.

That’s the book that got me started when I was 34 years old.

This is all coming from a guy who is probably 3-5 years behind you in career progress. So, what the heck do I know? 1. This isn't a money thing, but a life-stability thing... Have you done AWC online yet? That could help you avoid having to PCS twice in a year (for 10 months of school). Unless you need to come to Maxwell to take a knee. 2. Dang, I had never run the retirement calculator for an O-6 pension. I didn't realize it hit above $100k. Are you using this calculator? https://militarypay.defense.gov/Calculators/High-3-Calculator/ 3. Search the internet for an AWC student paper titled, "The COLA Trap: Picking the Wrong Retirement Date Could Cost You Thousands" by Col Fowler. Bottom line: retire in March. 4. How confident are y...

Lastrun wrote: ↑Sat Sep 07, 2024 8:43 pm

the_wiki wrote: ↑Sat Sep 07, 2024 8:28 pm I did not see that anywhere in the terms, but it does say you already need an account to apply online. They say you can apply over the phone or in person if you do not.

Sorry I was not clearer, correct, you need an account only to apply online.

In the end, this will be better than the WF card due to the no FTF. And arguably better than the Fidelity card, for those that value cell phone protection more than the minor benefits that card provides.

I don’t have any relationship with PNC, prior to this card. I applied over the phone. It’s was quick and easy. When my card arrives, I’ll be able to sign up for a PNC online account.

Why isn’t the PNC 2% cash back credit card more talked about? On bogleheads and on any credit card review website, the Wells Fargo 2% cash back credit card seems to be a long-standing favorite. The PNC card has all the same benefits (for a boglehead who pays the balance in full each month). The only difference I can find is that the PNC card does not have a foreign transaction fee, unlike Wells Fargo. Or is there some other red flag I’m not noticing? Something that keeps it from being a winner? I ask because I just signed up for the PNC card and plan to do away with my Wells Fargo card. (I travel overseas a lot, so foreign transaction fees are a big deal to me.) Why would you "do away" with the Wells Fargo card rather than keep i...

Why isn’t the PNC 2% cash back credit card more talked about?

On bogleheads and on any credit card review website, the Wells Fargo 2% cash back credit card seems to be a long-standing favorite. The PNC card has all the same benefits (for a boglehead who pays the balance in full each month). The only difference I can find is that the PNC card does not have a foreign transaction fee, unlike Wells Fargo.

Or is there some other red flag I’m not noticing? Something that keeps it from being a winner?

I ask because I just signed up for the PNC card and plan to do away with my Wells Fargo card. (I travel overseas a lot, so foreign transaction fees are a big deal to me.)

Money market funds have a value of $1 per share. They don't have capital losses or gains. Each day they earn interest, which is called a dividend, paid monthly usually. You pay taxes in that interest as dividend income, not taxable gains, regardless of whether you withdraw funds or not. Most brokerage would transfer the funds via ACH in 2 business days. Sell Monday, in account Wednesday. Or you could wire funds and have it Tuesday. Thanks for this. I was getting ready to ask the same question over in my own thread , but this solves it. It was getting confusing since different places don’t always clearly differentiate between interest, dividends, capital gains, mutual funds, and money market funds. Even the SPAXX prospectus didn’t make it c...

I know I've posted about similar plans before. I'm just thinking through variations on the theme. What do you think? Is this an obviously bad idea or is there some significant factor I'm overlooking? I like consolidation and simplification, so I'm shooting for fewer financial institutions and fewer unused credit cards in my life. However, I also care about a useful setup that provides good returns (interest or cash back) and protects my creditworthiness (credit score). I currently have: 1x Wells Fargo credit card - This is a primary user. 2x Amex credit cards - One of these is a primary user, and the other is a rarely used backup. 1x Capital One credit card - This is only used when I travel internationally. 1x USAA credit card - This is nev...

I got married recently, and I’m probably somewhere around OP’s granddaughter age, so I thought my input might be helpful. My opinion is you’re reading way too much into this. If they are my age (30’s) or younger, they probably handle at most one or two checks a year. They will just be happy you gave them a gift and that they were able to deposit it successfully. Unless you really had an axe to grind with the spouse-to-be, and you go out of your way to make it known, the newlyweds won’t think twice about how the money gets to his/her/their bank account. As someone else said, unless the gift has maybe 5 or more zeros behind it, don’t worry about tracing ownership. +1 OP, you’re thinking about this from your perspective and your experience, m...

Dude, quit.

You have all the money you need to live a good life. Just not the self control.

Hire a financial advisor or something. Take a hit on the fee. Take a hit on the taxes. Just direct someone else to unroll your positions into a 2 or 3 fund portfolio and then STOP LOOKING AT IT.

Get your adrenaline rush somewhere else. Go skydiving or learn to fly. Buy a freaking racehorse. Just leave your portfolio to someone else.

All my accounts are currently secured with 2FA. I'm looking to improve that with better MFA. All my passwords are random letter/number/symbol combos and never used twice. As for security guarantees, I think I hit that above. Unless you think I'm missing the point (which I'm ready to accept might be the case). I'm not familiar with USAA. If someone impersonates you on the phone and wires out money, are you really protected? I'd guess probably as the bank is in the best position to detect the fraud in that case but absent a guarantee, it might take court to get the money back. Their site says: Zero Liability Policy You aren't responsible for unauthorized credit card‍ ‍ (See note 2) and debit card‍ ‍ (See note 3) transactions you report to us...

I don't see a need to be closing any of those cards. I have a couple dozen active cards and I use most of them. Like you, I have taken advantage of the sign on bonuses and also do use cards for things at higher % bonus points. I also do sell tradelines and take advantage of low balance forgiveness. I like doing the hoops to make more money. The large number of cards helps keep my credit limit very high which is good for my credit score, at about 830 at the moment. If you wanted to downsize from a dozen to 6 and just use a 2% card all the time, I'd say that would make sense. You can sock drawer the cards you don't want to use and just use what you want to use. I think 6 is a minimum. Why? When DW and I travel, we each have 3 cards so if som...

Alright. Throw your spears. Personally, your proposal wouldn't meet my criteria for safety. I break things down into two main considerations 1) temporary loss of access and 2) loss due to fraud. I agree with others that having multiple credit cards can work in your favor in-regards to temporary loss of access. Not only will you have additional cards if one is lost or compromised, but you credit limit will be higher and if something does happen to your bank or brokerage such as your account getting hacked resulting it being frozen while they investigate, then you can more easily get by. Keep your oldest card as it will help with your credit rating. I don't see credit cards as carrying a large risk of fraud because they are usually good at r...

Hi, Bogleheads. I have this idea, but I think it's worth running it past the crowd to see if I'm overlooking something or inaccurately weighing consequences. What I have: 2x Banks 1x Brokerage 5x Credit Cards 4x Credit Card Issuers TOTAL 5 financial institutions. What I think I'm going to switch to: 1x Bank 1x Brokerage 3x Credit Cards 2x Credit Card Issuers TOTAL 3 financial institutions. A) For a few months, I have been trying to absolutely maximize my CC cashback rewards. This card for groceries and gas. That card for travel. A 2% cashback card for everything else. Unless I'm overseas (which happens a lot), then I need to use these other two cards. I was definitely maximizing, but looking back, I don't think it was worth it. I did some m...

I mean, your logic is not completely wrong, but it's kind of like saying "if I don't swim in the ocean I will protect myself from shark bites and therefore live longer on average." SIM swap attacks are the shark bite of cybersecurity. They do happen. But the vast majority of the time, you just get phished or tricked into running malware. Your secondary "secret" number is also likely discoverable. If an attacker can induce AT&T to port your phone number, a clearly risky operation that invites scrutiny and costs AT&T money even when legitimate, imagine how much more easily they can get AT&T to simply disclose your phone number. So I'm not sure if you're even preventing all the shark bites. I like your analogy ...

Imo, a lot of threads could be autofilled by ai. For example, every college thread results in the same basic points made, easy enough to fill in 100 or so posts with ai personas, ditto for how much gold to buy, ditto for tips funds vs individual tips, ditto for spias, etc. We could even have a special ai persona which encourages away anyone who posts extraordinary credentials (hedgedundie, swedoe, etc) as this too, has unfortunately become somewhat predictable. I suppose a portfolio review ai would be genuinely useful. Best, Agreed. Something that helps guide people to correctly formatting and calculating their portfolio, which makes a few basic observations, and then signals to the rest of the forum that “this person is ready to talk, now...

Mid-Del (Midwest City and Del City) schools aren’t known to be the best, Carl Albert is probably a step up in that area. Mid-Del has some pretty rough areas, I’d be careful and do some research before renting or buying. With her description I’d probably be looking at something in the Choctaw area, again decent schools but not top of the line. A commute from Edmond to MWC wouldn’t be bad, going to Grand Casino wouldn’t be much fun. If she picks Edmond pay attention to how close she is to a highway. If you are in the heart of Edmond it can take 10-15 minutes just to get to a highway to go somewhere else. Seconded. I wouldn’t want to live in Midwest City or Del City if I could avoid it. There are probably okay areas… but still. I’ve known lot...

retired@50 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 21, 2024 7:08 am

investingguy wrote: ↑Sat Jul 20, 2024 8:11 pm
3. use the cash to fund my schooling, graduate with no loans and start saving from scratch.

Option 3 would be my pick.

I paid for my 2 college degrees with savings or current earnings and avoided loans. I'd suggest you do the same.

Regards,

+1 for the high liquidity and no debt option.

Put one year of expenses and tuition in a high yield savings account.

Put everything else into either A) one, two, and three year CDs, set to mature when you need them to start paying the next year’s tuition. Or, B) the same high yield savings account as your current year expenses. Pick whichever one is getting better yields at the time.

I can’t answer most of those questions, but… here’s my vote for Edmond. I grew up there. Private school at St. Elizabeth’s through eighth grade. My sister moved to public school (Sequoyah) starting with sixth grade. We both did high school at Edmond North. At the time (2002-2006) Edmond North was one of the top schools in the country for military academy appointments. So, there’s one (old) measure of performance. I moved away after high school. But I meet a lot of Air Force officers who at one time or another were stationed at Tinker AFB in the Del City or Midwest City area. All of them lived in Edmond and commuted to base. Many of them still own their homes in Edmond and rent them. My parents and grandparents still live there. It’s nice wh...

Another vote for 100% VTSAX (or 100% VTI). Come back in 2 decades after reading and learning. By then, the wisdom of 100% VTSAX will be apparent and your kid can leave it as is for another 2 decades.

The Expanse series. Starting with Leviathan Wakes by James S. A. Corey.

Ghost Fleet or anything else by P. W. Singer. Especially if you’re into near-future military/war stuff.

Since the TSP is a tax advantaged account, can you still make changes in there without incurring tax penalties?

Maybe you can transfer to the appropriate lifecycle fund (L 2025, perhaps). They are low cost and a super easy option. Maybe that would help kick some penguins off and make room on your iceberg.

Unintentional duplicate post. Delete.

I only started learning the Boglehead way after USAA had already moved my brokerage accounts to Victory Capitol.

I did a “Transfer In-Kind” from Victory Capitol to Vanguard. It’s not a super fast process (1-2 weeks, I think), but everything worked out just fine and on the first try.

So, that’s my +1 for Vanguard. If I also wanted a new credit card to go with my new brokerage account, maybe I’d go with Fidelity. Their 2% cash back card and cash management account are well liked around here.

My $0.02 is that I'd want a CPA if I were you. Then again, $0.02 really isn't worth much... Since you mention a TSP, I'm going to guess that one or both of you are/were in the military. Are there any resources at militaryonesource.mil that could help? I know they have financial counselors. Maybe talking to one of them could help you get a recommendation or find an in with a good CPA. Stealing this idea directly from T he Millionaire Next Door by Stanley and Danko... Contact your local college or university. See if anyone who teaches Finance can point you to someone they know, maybe even a successful student who has joined/started a CPA firm. Last idea... When I needed an immigration lawyer for my foreign national wife, I searched online and...

I dropped Prime back in 2018 and never looked back. You'll love it.

Once a year or so, Amazon will offer me a "free trial." I usually hold onto that for emergencies when I need something quick and can't get it in town or around the holidays when I have to buy junk anyway because that's what society says I'm supposed to do. Once I'm done with that, I cancel the free trail and wait again until next year.

I’ve been using these for years as a road and mountain biker. I’ve tried a lot of different bottles, but unless you’re an absolute weight weenie (technical term), these are the best. You shouldn’t have to “remove” anything just to drink from the bottle. What that video is demonstrating is how you might clean it. Really, most of what that video does is probably not necessary and certainly not intended by Camelbak. The black bit on the top of the lid (when fully assembled) has two wings that kinda stick out from the center and lay flat along the top of the bottle. A bit like a wing nut or something. Those move. They open and close the leak proof valve. If you are trying to drink from the bottle, but nothing comes out, check and make sure that...

+1 for YNAB.

For family spending and budgeting: YNAB. I tried Quicken Simplifi. It was a good product if you want something more like a register of transactions. Simplifi shows you “what you did.” YNAB is much better for planning your spending before you do it. YNAB shows you “what you plan to do.”

For the family investment portfolio: Nothing. All my investments are with Vanguard and TSP, and the holdings there are very simple. So, checking two websites isn’t much of a burden. I’m also not in the withdrawal phase of life, if that makes a difference.

peterwantstosave wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2024 9:44 pm Net Worth is approaching $500K. I keep saving and investing with simplicity, Boglehead style. Just wanting to be sure I take every necessary step toward $1M in the next decade.

Credit cards are absolutely not a “necessary step” to financial success. Pull the trigger on Plan C, if you ask me.

Some more info would be helpful. What's your current credit score? How many credit cards do you have? What's your oldest credit card, and how old is it? Regardless, here are three ideas that come to mind... Plan A) Cancel all your credit cards except for one. Keep the oldest one you have, which also has a $0 annual fee. Put the credit card in a drawer and stop thinking about it. Turn on auto-payment to the remaining credit card from your checking account. Put a reminder on your phone so that once per year, you take out that credit card, buy yourself a coffee, and then put the card back in the drawer. Plan B) Cancel all your credit cards except for one. Keep the oldest one you have, which also has a $0 annual fee. Put the credit card in a dr...

How about a small portable generator? Think about one on wheels that is stored in your garage. If the power goes out, roll that bad Jonny into the backyard and gas 'er up. Get one that has enough power for your essentials, like maybe the fridge and a single-room AC unit. If you're only doing it for a day or two, does it really matter if you are just running an extension cord from your generator, through a window, and into the kitchen? Sure, the HOA says "no generator,"... but the power is out, and all your neighbors either a) left to a hotel or b) are asking you to store stuff in your working refrigerator. That seems like a reasonable extenuating circumstance. As soon as the power goes back on, you turn it off and roll it back int...

I wonder if there is some confusion or overlap in your understanding of a brokerage account or a cash management account or a money market account. Either way, you might wanna look into that for your emergency fund.

You don’t sound super confident in your understanding of a few personal finance basics. It might help build confidence and ask different questions if you read up a bit.

The Index Card by Olen and Pollack is a good place to start. Follow it up with The Simple Path to Wealth by Collins or The Bogleheads’ Guide to Investing by Lindauer, Larimore, and LeBoeuf.

I don't have a FI number or retirement number.. haven't thought that through. I also don't even know what to invest in over the long term. I want to start DCAing into an index but it seems like most things are at all time highs right now. You’re getting lots of really good advice here, but this tidbit was passed over in the shadow of bigger issues. Lay it to rest and stop thinking about it. For now, throw your cash at VTSAX (or VTI if you prefer an ETF). You’re dollar cost averaging. Don’t worry or even spend a moment to think about how “things are at all time highs.” That’s market timing and it’s not BH doctrine. You should read any of the books recommended in the wiki to convince yourself of that. But in the mean time, put your investmen...

Don’t underestimate the importance of a good tonic water for your gin and tonic.

Like the gin, it’s a personal choice. Try a bunch and find the one you like. My favorite used to be a grocery store in-house brand of tonic water. Sadly, I can’t get it around here.

Enjoy your gin!

lakpr wrote: ↑Tue Jul 02, 2024 7:41 pm F fund is the same as VBTLX. G fund has no equivalent in the retail world.

Think of the G fund as having properties of Series I savings bonds. It never loses value, but gives you the yield of short term Treasury bills.

Thanks!

Is there a way to approximate VBTLX with the TSP's F and G Funds?

What percentage of each? Where would I find a reference every year to ensure I'm properly rebalancing? I've read somewhere that the G Fund is composed of "non-marketable" government bonds. Does that mean that the F Fund is the same as VBTLX without the G Fund?

I think security will be dependent on how the aggregator connects to your service. Ideally, you want them to connect via some sort of application login. … The advantage to this method is that once established, the connection doesn't use your username and password so empower doesn't need to store your credentials. The connection is only read only and access can be revoked at any time from Wells Fargo's side. This time of connection is also more stable and don't usually have problems with 2FA. However, not every institution will support this type of connections. The aggregator will then use screen scraping and will need to store user name and password. I did a lot of research on this earlier this year. I was calling banks and aggregators, ga...

I think security will be dependent on how the aggregator connects to your service. Ideally, you want them to connect via some sort of application login. … The advantage to this method is that once established, the connection doesn't use your username and password so empower doesn't need to store your credentials. The connection is only read only and access can be revoked at any time from Wells Fargo's side. This time of connection is also more stable and don't usually have problems with 2FA. However, not every institution will support this type of connections. The aggregator will then use screen scraping and will need to store user name and password. I did a lot of research on this earlier this year. I was calling banks and aggregators, ga...

If you get some time, go see a baseball game. The fans take their games to a whole new level. I went and watched the team in Suwon. 10/10, would do again.

I still use it for various cleaning out the house/garage sweeps from time to time. Currently in the middle of one such garage clean out. 10 items listed on FB Marketplace right now. In the past, I’ve gotten tons of shady messages on FB Marketplace. There is a common thread. They all want my phone number or email address. Sometimes they can make it sound legit. Usually by saying something like “just let me know your phone number and I’ll send the money to you with Zelle.” My policy is that I only communicate with buyers via FB Messenger. That way they don’t get any actual valuable personal info like phone or email. Sometimes this annoys the scammers, but I’ve stuck by it. When you tell a real person, “Sorry I’d rather just message you throug...

We have one workhorse checking account for almost all transactions. We have a 2nd checking account which has less than $300 in it except when we travel overseas. This checking account is tied to my ATM card, Zelle, and Venmo, but not bill pay, USTreasury deposits, etc.. My feeling is that if this is hacked, then I won't have to compromise my other checking account. Transfers to/from this account to the workhorse account are instantaneous. A third checking account came with Fidelity account(s), but has no almost no transactions and $0.00 balance since any money that appears there is sent more or less automatically elsewhere. No savings accounts anywhere. That's interesting. In addition to complexity, I see another bank account as just one m...

I have exactly what you do OP. One HYSA at an online bank, a savings account with a national brick and mortar bank, and a chequing account with them as well. This is basically the minimum that I can reasonably see having. There is no replacement for a national brick and mortar bank, so at least one account needs to be there. Keeping the savings account there gives me a bit more of a relationship and some flexibility beyond just a chequing account so despite the relativity high opportunity cost with today's interest rates I'm not planning on consolidating. When rates were low and fees less intrusive I considered having accounts with 3 or 4 of the national chains for more total coverage, but that cost is hard to justify under current circums...

So, how many bank accounts do you have? How many do you regularly use? How many are unused? How many are on "autopilot" or only used for infrequent/minor transactions? How many checking, savings, or cash management accounts? I'm working through another questions in a different thread . One of the leading solutions to my problem is to open another checking account with another institution. I am averse to complexity. A new account and possibly a whole new institution doesn't appeal to me. Is this an "average" feeling? I have... 1x checking account: this is my primary checking and receives my direct deposit. 1x standard savings account: this is a relic of bygone days that I'm not regularly using. 1x high-yield savings acco...

slippinsurlies wrote: ↑Thu Jun 20, 2024 8:24 am

ScubaHogg wrote: ↑Wed Jun 19, 2024 6:55 am 2) the couples times I’ve had a chunk of cash I needed to deposit I’ve either gone to Walmart, which will add it to your PayPal account, or I’ve purchased a money order at the post office and deposited that

Come again?

https://www.paypal.com/us/cshelp/articl ... it-help131

This looks interesting. Maybe that'll do. Walmart adds cash to my PayPal account. Then I transfer it back from PayPal to my checking account. Anyone ever tested this full process (not just leaving the balance with PayPal)?

I am a USAA (remote) customer for decades. I don’t have a problem with remote deposits. But, in your situation - I recall that USAA used to (and might still) have pre-paid deposit envelopes that could be requested online. If that’s still offered (and I do not why not), you could go that route. Have a stack of such envelopes - send your money orders to USAA using them. Problem solved. Oh yeah. I remember those. I think there was an option last time I ordered checks (years ago) if I wanted to also get some deposit envelopes. Maybe that'll do. Since you mention capital one, you could open a capital one checking account. There are 0 fees or balance requirements. A cap one checking account lets you deposit cash at a cvs or Walgreens for free wi...

If you’re already banking with Chase, I would grab a Chase Freedom Rise credit card and not worry about it. That early in your financial life, the exact card doesn’t matter too much. Its’s more important that you get a card, pay it down to $0 every month, and keep that line of credit open for a long time. I still keep my college era credit card open, 18 years later. Having that length of credit history is a big help for credit scores. If you can’t pay the card off every month, then don’t use it. But keep it open. If you aren’t sure about your ability to use the card safely, consider this tactic… Put some kind of very cheap recurring charge on the card AND set it up to automatically pay the card in full every month. Then, put the card in a d...

Is one of these not as bad as I make it out to be? Well, #4 appears to have a $21.25 annual (not monthly) opportunity cost. And assuming that's based on a 4.25% rate on your cash, I'd point out that you can easily do 75-100 basis points better outside of USAA. Even putting all your eggs in the USAA basket also has opportunity costs. I'd recommend a Wells Fargo checking account as it is easier to maintain and they have lots of branches where you need them. I keep one just in case things go sideways elsewhere and for the occasional need for an actual bank branch for deposits such as yours or the occasional cashier's check. They don't bother me about my just-enough balance and they don't mind occasional cash deposits. FWIW, I'm a USAA member ...

livesoft wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 5:16 pm I give cash to people and they Zelle me.

Yeah. That did occur to me. I guess I'm gonna have to start making friends who use cash. Haha!

delamer wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 5:19 pm Seems that Option #1 is the simplest.

But are you talking about $50 or $500?

Both. I have $80 right now that I need to deposit. Once last year I had a wad of $850 to deposit.

jebmke wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 5:19 pm Perhaps at some ATMs?

On the right track. But according to the USAA website, the nearest ATM that will accept a cash deposit is 1.5 hours away in a place and direction that I have no other reason to go.

For those of you who use USAA or a similar online bank... How do you deposit cash into your checking account? 1. This is a generalization, but it's 2024, and I'm a millennial. Therefore, I rarely use or carry cash. When someone pays me cash for something, like the desk I just sold on FB Marketplace, I need to find a way to get it into my checking account. I could just include my wallet as another account in my YNAB budget and pay for things with cash... Ugh. 2. I used to use money orders and then use the "mobile check deposit" function of the USAA smartphone app. In recent years, places have started printing the words "NOT FOR MOBILE DEPOSIT" on their money orders. So, that's not a reliable option anymore. (I say reliabl...

I would start by reading Estate Planning 101 by Cook and Blacklock. It’s a fast read, you’ll be able to skip chunks about kids and step-kids, and (most importantly) you’ll be able to ask more nuanced questions.

It is a happy ending this time but how could one prove to Vanguard that I have x amount of this and that with them in case their computers say something else? Yikes. I guess what you could do (and what I’ll start doing after reading this post) is keep your most recent Vanguard documents. Specifically, keep any monthly account summaries and any transaction confirmations for whatever is too recent to be captured by the account summary. I’ll probably only hold onto the most recent docs, not make my own account history library. That sounds like a huge pain in the butt… on the other hand, it’s a small thing compared to the future security of my family. Does anyone know if that’s worth it? Shed any light on how Vanguard might deal with this?